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New EOC No heat at elements

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New Oven. Never used. Powered UP. Blank clock. Replaced EOC. Display now works. Convection Fan works. Oven light works. All

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Old 10-27-2009, 09:59 PM
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Default New EOC No heat at elements
Model Number: FEB27S7FCC   Brand: Frigidaire   Age: Less than 1 year   

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New Oven. Never used. Powered UP. Blank clock. Replaced EOC. Display now works. Convection Fan works. Oven light works. All display functions appear to function properly. Input broil high or low. display indicates preheat and broil in process. No heat at broiler element. Input Bake 400. Display indicates preheat and bake in process. No heat at bake element. Input speedbake. Convection fan starts up and display indicates convect bake in process. No heat at element. Just replaced the EOC. There are no error codes. What other defective part or parts would cause this problem.
Thanks
Colbert


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  #2 (permalink)  
Old 10-28-2009, 02:24 AM
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Here are your parts
Replacement parts for FEB27S7FCC models | AppliancePartsPros.com

Here is the wiring diagram
http://manuals.frigidaire.com/prodin.../318046237.pdf

New Oven. Never used. Powered UP. Blank clock. Replaced EOC. Display now works. Convection Fan works. Oven light works. All display functions appear to function properly. Input broil high or low. display indicates preheat and broil in process. No heat at broiler element. Input Bake 400. Display indicates preheat and bake in process. No heat at bake element. Input speedbake. Convection fan starts up and display indicates convect bake in process. No heat at element. Just replaced the EOC. There are no error codes. What other defective part or parts would cause this problem.

Hopefully this is being covered under warranty.

Have you checked that the unit is getting 240 volts?
L1 to Neutral should be 240 volts
L1 to Neutral and L2 to Neutral both should be 120 volts
The control board, lights and convection fan all run on 120 volts the elements require the 240.

Also if this is a 3 wire hookup instead of a 4 wire make sure there is a ground strap from Neutral to the frame. If it is a 4 wire hook up make sure the ground strap has been removed.

Next make sure the safety thermostat is OK.
Unplug the unit, remove one wire from it and check it with a meter, should be 0 ohms.

Having one problem with a unit happens, having two is very, very rare.
So I would check that the unit itself is wired correctly.
Could be that the replacement board is no good.
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Old 11-01-2009, 01:49 PM
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Thankyou so much for replying to my post. Sorry for not responding back immediately but a family emergency delayed the attempt at repair.
Alas, there is no warranty for this new oven and I will have to pay for the parts it may need. I have only had time to check power at the junction box that the built-in oven is connected to. Reading of 240 volts at that location is verified. The oven has 4 wires and the junction box has three. The electrician connected red to red, black to black and the white and bare ground from the oven to the single ground at the junction box. I did notice that the wires from the oven are all very small. The wires are all 14 ga, I would expect at least 10ga? I plan on disconnecting and pulling oven from wall tomorrow to check the safety thermostat. to be more precise on voltage: At junction box L1 to L2 = 242V, L1 to neutral = 120.4V, L2 to neutral = 120.5V Will update tomorrow.

Last edited by colbert : 11-01-2009 at 03:36 PM. Reason: add precise voltages
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Old 11-03-2009, 10:36 AM
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Took the oven out of the wall. There is no ground strap from neutral at the terminal block to the oven frame. The oven sends 3 wires from the terminal block to the junction box ie L1 L2 neutral and 1 bare wire grd from the frame. Junction box supplies 110v on L1, 110v on L2 and ground. The oven power cord is connected L1 to L1, L2 to L2, neutral and barewire ground to ground wire at the junction. Had an electrician install this unit. He did not install a ground strap from the neutral at the terminal block to the frame. Where can I purchase a ground strap or can I make one?
Removed one wire from safety thermostat. Checked with olm meter. No reading.
Is it possible that not having a ground strap from the neutral at the terminal block to the frame is responsible for no heat at the elements?
Are there any more possibilities? Please advise.
Thanks!
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Old 11-03-2009, 12:52 PM
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Here is the install manual
http://manuals.frigidaire.com/prodin.../318201514.pdf

There is no ground strap from neutral at the terminal block to the oven frame. The oven sends 3 wires from the terminal block to the junction box ie L1 L2 neutral and 1 bare wire grd from the frame. Junction box supplies 110v on L1, 110v on L2 and ground. The oven power cord is connected L1 to L1, L2 to L2, neutral and barewire ground to ground wire at the junction. Had an electrician install this unit. He did not install a ground strap from the neutral at the terminal block to the frame. Where can I purchase a ground strap or can I make one?
Sorry do not quite understand the above so will recap
The oven has L1, L2, Neutral and Ground (4 Wires)
The wall receptacle (junction box) has L1, L2 and Neutral (3 wires)
It is connected L1 to L1, L2 to L2, Neutral to Neutral and Ground
If the above is tru it is connected correctly

Removed one wire from safety thermostat. Checked with olm meter. No reading.
This sounds like your problem. It should be 0 ohms (a short).

Is it possible that not having a ground strap from the neutral at the terminal block to the frame is responsible for no heat at the elements?
I do not think so as this is more of a safety device to ensure that the oven frame cannot go live.
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Old 11-03-2009, 01:43 PM
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Thanks Denman,
The wiring is correct. The olm meter check resulted in a OL reading, resistance is off the charts. Based on that reading and your most appreciated help, it appears I need to order the safety thermostat. If that does not correct the problem, what would you recommend as the next step? I have already replaced the EOC. It is possible the replacement board is bad also.
Thanks again.
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Old 11-03-2009, 02:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by colbert View Post
Thanks Denman,
The wiring is correct. The olm meter check resulted in a OL reading, resistance is off the charts. Based on that reading and your most appreciated help, it appears I need to order the safety thermostat. If that does not correct the problem, what would you recommend as the next step? I have already replaced the EOC. It is possible the replacement board is bad also.
Thanks again.
Is it possible to bypass the safety thermostat ( by direct connect of the two input wires) long enough to verify it is the problem? This thumb size part is over $80
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Old 11-03-2009, 05:20 PM
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Yes
You could short them together then tape them up so they cannot short to the frame.

Get a good contact between the wires as it will be carrying about 10 amps when you try it.
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