Hey MaximFour,
When you turn the valves are you hearing any clicking at all or just silence?
If there is no sound, first reset your breaker at the breaker box.

If you hear a clicking we can assume within reason that the spark module and switches are good.

If there is a clicking sound but no spark or a weak spark (yellow vs white, going down vs across, etc.) you can try cleaning the head of the electrode very lightly with a super fine sandpaper or with a clean toothbrush. Also, be sure to rough up ever so slightly the spot on the burner that the spark is intended to jump to.

Let us know what noise it is making if any.

Thanks!

Yeah, if your oven is working ok (and a single unit with the cooktop) then you are correct - the power supply is likely not the issue. I'd reset the breaker either way to say that you've done it.

There are switches (under the knobs) that commonly get cleaning supplies in them, but I believe your knobs are on the front of the oven so it's unlikely that cleaning supplies got on the switches there.

It sounds as if the spark module is not working.
To test would require removing the oven top. This may or may not be in your comfort level.

It could be also that there is still water shorting something (the spark module perhaps?) and letting it continue to dry out may help.

Try lighting the burners manually with a lighter and leaving them all on high for 20 minutes. Perhaps this will help dry it out.

Can someone tell me how to determine if the wiring harness switches or the spark module is the problem? I've checked with my meter the module on the voltage scale, but no reading . There are (2) leads..(1) white, which goes to the rear of the stove and a red which goes to the switch harness. The others goes to each burner off the module. How can I test to eliminate which one of these two components is the culpurt? Thanks to all who have replied.