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DNelson61  
#1 Posted : Wednesday, October 1, 2014 9:56:21 AM(UTC)
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DNelson61

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I'm a newbie at trying this home repair thing, so bear with me please.
I have a wall mount oven that's about 20+ years old. Just recently i've had trouble with it maintaining or reaching desired temps. (I've had to set it up to 475 to get it to heat to 350). Does it need a new heating coil possibly?
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denman  
#2 Posted : Wednesday, October 1, 2014 1:35:56 PM(UTC)
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denman

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Here are your parts
You seem to be missing the last digit in the model number so you will have to choose the correct one from the Matching Model Numbers section.
Parts for RB760PXYB - AppliancePartsPros.com

[COLOR="Blue"]Does it need a new heating coil possibly?[/COLOR]
Yes this is a possibility.

I am assuming that the oven either never comes ready or takes a long time to show it is ready.
If it shows that it is ready and the oven temperature is low then it is a different problem.

Turn the oven to broil to see if the broil element comes on.

If it does then the likely culprit is the bake element.
If it does not then the likely culprit is the broil element.

Remove power from the unit.
If it is hard wired turn the breaker off.
Note: this should be a double breaker so both sides have to be turned off. Usually they are connected together.

Undo the screw/s that hold the element to the back of the oven cavity.
Gently pull the element into the oven cavity.
Measure the element with a meter.
The bake element should be about about 30 ohms.
The broil element should be about 20 ohms.
The one that is open (infinite ohms) is the bad one.

If you disconnect the element from the wires I like to clip a clothes pin etc. to the wires so that they cannot disappear into the back of the oven.

If you do not own a meter, I would suggest you purchase a one. You can get a decent digital multimeter for under $20.00. You do not need fancy though it is nice if the leads are a couple feet long.
If it saves ordering one unnecessary part it has paid for itself and you end up owning a useful tool.
Most places will not let you return electrical parts so if you order it, you own it.
A couple things to watch when measuring ohms and continuity
1. Always remove power from the machine otherwise you could blow your meter.
2. Always disconnect at least one side of any device you are checking. This eliminates the possibility of measuring an alternate/parallel circuit path.
3. When checking for closed contacts and continuity use the lowest scale (Usually 200 ohms). Then try higher scales. This scale is 0 to 200 ohms so if the device you are measuring is 300 ohms this scale would show an open circuit which it is not, you are just measuring outside the scale's dynamic range.
4. When you start always short the meter leads together. This will tell you that the meter is working and if there is any 0 offset.

There is a good STICKY at the start of this forum about it's use.
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DNelson61  
#3 Posted : Thursday, October 2, 2014 5:29:59 AM(UTC)
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DNelson61

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Thank You so much, you've been a world of help!
denman  
#4 Posted : Thursday, October 2, 2014 6:10:06 AM(UTC)
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denman

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You are welcome.

Good luck with it.

If you need additional help we are here for you.
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