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kitchenaid superba oven no heat

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Oven Repair (including Ranges and Cooktops)

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oven stopped heating (i am told it happened after self-clean attempt.) I replaced both burners I tested oven temp sensor

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Old 07-23-2014, 12:16 PM
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Default kitchenaid superba oven no heat
Model Number: ykerc607hs7   Brand: Kitchen Aid   Age: More than 10 years   

Appliance Parts from AppliancePartPros.com


oven stopped heating (i am told it happened after self-clean attempt.)

I replaced both burners

I tested oven temp sensor = 1100 ohms (GOOD)

I tested fixed thermostat ("Bi-Metal") a.k.a. Thermal switch for fan motor #9759944 = no continuity (which i think means GOOD)

I tested the thermal cutout (thermostat) #341196 = continuity (which i think means GOOD)

I tested voltage at wall outlet = 240VAC

Touch pad for oven modes and temperature selections works normally.
(eg: "Bake", 350F, start, "Lo" )

The relays controlling power to the elements click. In some modes there are supposed to be three realys, and i DO hear three clicks. In some other modes four relays and i DO hear four clicks.

Stovetop burners function but one is not working (dont think related but mentioning it incase it reminds you guys of some possible fix.)

Thanks!
E2


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  #2 (permalink)  
Old 07-24-2014, 03:27 AM
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Here are your parts
Parts for Whirlpool YKERC607HS7 Range - AppliancePartsPros.com

See the attachment for the tech sheet

The Y often designates the unit as Canadian.

I tested the thermal cutout (thermostat) #341196 = continuity (which i think means GOOD).
It is better to check it's resistance as it may show continuity but have a high resistance which could hold the elements off.
It should be 0 ohms.

The relays controlling power to the elements click. In some modes there are supposed to be three realys, and i DO hear three clicks. In some other modes four relays and i DO hear four clicks.
The clicks tell you that the relays are being activated or deactivated but does not tell you that the cotacts in the relay are actually closing.

Stove top burners function but one is not working (dont think related but mentioning it incase it reminds you guys of some possible fix.)

Yes this is probably a separate problem.

You will have to determine which unit you have (US or Canadian).

If Canadian the DLB relay (item 30 in section 03) would be at the top on my list.

You could do a live test but be very very careful as 240 volts is lethal.
Check from L2 (usually red) to the common side of the elements.
With the oven off it should measure 0 volts.
Then turn on the oven.
If you measure 240 volts then the relay contacts are not closing.
Then check for the 24 volts when the oven is on.
If it is there the problem is with the control board.
If there is 24 volts then the relay is bad.
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File Type: pdf YKERC607.pdf (184.6 KB, 4 views)
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Old 07-24-2014, 03:14 PM
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Yes the unit is Canadian.

Yes I realize the clicking relay means only that the control signal is being sent but ill take that as good for two reasons:
1. The board is probably fine (the printed circuit boards/ controller)
2. The odds of all contacts failing simultaneously an not even one I the burners heating up?? Seems pretty low probability. Especially since it all quit at once. (And its strange: the burners both had a big pockmark where they blew , but that INNER circuit of the element on the top of the oven didnt seem to, and it did pass continuity in its own, but I wonder if the circuitry doesn't permit it alone to heat up due to the way it's wired with the outer element into the power supply...?)

So ya I guess I'll get out dads old linesman's gloves and carefully probe a little closer to the action for 240v.
But not sure what the "24 volts" is you're referring to? Is that the relay control power? Will review schematic.
Does the self clean attempt preceding this have any relevance in terms of something tha may not have received a reset command if it all failed mid-cycle?

Thank you!!!
E2
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Old 07-25-2014, 02:56 AM
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2. The odds of all contacts failing simultaneously an not even one I the burners heating up??
The DLB (double line break) kills power to all the elements.

Inner and outer broil elements are controlled separately.

But not sure what the "24 volts" is you're referring to? Is that the relay control power?

This is the DLB relay voltage. P10-2 to P10-1 on the Power Board Unit.

Does the self clean attempt preceding this have any relevance in terms of something tha may not have received a reset command if it all failed mid-cycle?
I cannot say for sure but I doubt it.
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