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Phantom Element Failure

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Oven Repair (including Ranges and Cooktops)

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Hello wizards, need your assistance, please! Whirlpool range oven has a cold bake element. The thing is, I am getting

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Old 06-23-2014, 07:15 PM
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Default Phantom Element Failure
Model Number: WFE510S0AB   Brand: Whirlpool   Age: 1 - 5 years   

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Hello wizards, need your assistance, please!

Whirlpool range oven has a cold bake element. The thing is, I am getting 120V on both connections and getting full continuity through the element itself!

I referenced incoming ground and checked the left and right spade connections while still connected to the heating element. 120V on both.

Then I disconnected the spades from the heating element and ran continuity, full tone. Resistance reads about 28 ohms.

Basic knowledge would tell me that an incoming 120V to both sides and a conducting element would mean that it would work... so why does it not??

Any advice would be much appreciated


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  #2 (permalink)  
Old 06-24-2014, 02:28 AM
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I cannot find a wiring diagram for this unit so have to do a bit of guessing.
Hopefully you have the diagram as it will make troubleshooting easier.

Basic knowledge would tell me that an incoming 120V to both sides and a conducting element would mean that it would work... so why does it not??
No, it does not mean that the element should heat up.
The element works off of 240 volts and the Neutral/ground is not part of that circuit.

I do not know how much you know so below is some info on how it works.
Your house electrical is actually two 120 volt supplies (L1 and L2) that share a common Neutral. Either side can be used to power lights, 120 outlets etc. in the home.
When one supply is at positive 120 volts, the other is at negative 120 volts.
So if you hook a device between the two (L1 and L2) it gets 240 volts. This is what is used to power your stove elements.

On many ovens one side of the element is always connected to one side of the line. That is why you see 120 volts when Neutral/ground is used as the reference. There is not a circuit path for current to flow so you see the same phase 120 on the other end of the element.

I did notice that there is a thermal fuse (item 17 in section03). I would check that it has continuity. On some units the fuse kills both elements, on others just the broil element and on others just the bake element.

If it is OK then check the wiring from the control board to the bake element.
If it is OK odds are that the control board is bad.

I am assuming that the unit stays in preheat and never comes ready.
If it shows that it is ready then it may be an oven sensor problem.
Below is a link with info on how to check it, look at 7, 8, 20 and 21.
Also if the thermal fuse is blown check it just to be sure it was not the cause of the fuse blowing.
http://www.applianceaid.com/electric...air-topics.php
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