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igniters keep sparking after light; parts replaced

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DACOR EPICURE ER48D 48" dual fuel range The igniters continue to spark (click) after flame lights and knob rotated past

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  #1 (permalink)  
Old 06-12-2014, 03:21 PM
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Default igniters keep sparking after light; parts replaced
Model Number: ER48D   Brand: Dacor   Age: 1 - 5 years   

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DACOR EPICURE ER48D 48" dual fuel range

The igniters continue to spark (click) after flame lights and knob rotated past light position.
I've got the thing completely disassembled, front panel off; all ignition switches completely disconnected; all ignition wires disconnected except the one burner I'm testing.

Replaced: ignition module, wire harness, igniters, switch(es).

Strange condition: getting pulsing high voltage through the switch when the igniter is sparking. In the off position there is 120V on the hot side of the switch. My digital meter is bouncing around so it's hard to tell exactly what the voltage is.

Another test with nothing plugged into the output side of the spark module ... can still hear the module clicking ... and the voltage is still jumping around on the input (hot) side wire.

Any ideas here???? Further tests??

A related question: how does the spark module know the flame is lit? does the heat change the resistance of the igniter?


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  #2 (permalink)  
Old 06-13-2014, 12:01 PM
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Default

more details ....

So in thinking through what I'm witnessing, the spark module is somehow affecting the 120v line voltage because I see jumps in the line voltage when the spark module is firing (even when no wires are connected to the output side). If I disconnect the connector from the spark module every thing seems normal as I rotate one of the knobs; 120v moves through the switch -- but this makes sense because the knob switches connect to the module through that connector. It's almost like the spark module (connector side) is somehow shorted to the chassis. But would it make sense to see pulsing from the connector side (as opposed to the output side)?

This led me to wonder something ... is there a voltage differential on the chassis? I tested AC Volts between the chassis and the wall outlet with the 4-prong plug in half way (to reach the spades). Chassis to ground: 0 volts, as expected. Chassis to Neutral (white) ... pulsing 0-15 volts or so .... that seems weird.

I am going to continue to look for any wires shorting to the chassis; and yes, the gas is off, lol.

Hoping someone has some idea ....

Glen
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