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dcoco  
#1 Posted : Friday, March 14, 2014 6:52:12 AM(UTC)
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dcoco

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Have trouble codes E2 F2 E2 & E1 F3 E1.Had control board rebuilt. Have checked both temp probe/sensor - they are reading 1083 ohms. After board reinstalled & temp probes checked still getting E1 F3 E1 code.
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denman  
#2 Posted : Saturday, March 15, 2014 12:36:15 AM(UTC)
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denman

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Here are your parts
Parts for Whirlpool RBD305PDQ2 Wall Oven - AppliancePartsPros.com

See the attachment for then tech sheet.

Have[COLOR="Blue"] trouble codes E2 F2 E2 & E1 F3 E1.Had control board rebuilt. [/COLOR]
The above does look like a control board problem as the F2 and F3 are unrelated erros so odds are good that it was the board.
[COLOR="Blue"]
After board reinstalled & temp probes checked still getting E1 F3 E1 code.[/COLOR]
Sounds like you still have a board problem.
Unplug the unit and disconnect the oven sensor.
The error should change to F3 E0, if not then I would say that the board is still no good.
File Attachment(s):
RBD305.pdf (682kb) downloaded 12 time(s).
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dcoco  
#3 Posted : Saturday, March 15, 2014 3:19:17 PM(UTC)
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dcoco

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You were right. After temp probes disconnected & power shut off. F3 E0 codes appered. Does this mean my temp probes are bad eventhough I had already checked them having 1083 omhs for each.

DCoco
denman  
#4 Posted : Sunday, March 16, 2014 3:32:41 AM(UTC)
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I was hoping that it would not change as that would definitely point to the control board.

So the new code really does not help us troubleshoot it.

It does still sound like a control board problem.
Due to both sensors measuring OK at room temperature.
Also it is highly unlikely that both sensors would fail at the same time and give the same error code.
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dcoco  
#5 Posted : Sunday, March 16, 2014 5:00:40 AM(UTC)
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dcoco

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So what would be my next step.What if I place jumpers into both temp probe connectors.

Dcoco:confused:
denman  
#6 Posted : Sunday, March 16, 2014 6:25:28 AM(UTC)
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denman

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If you jumper the probes then it would likely give you the F3 E1 code again.

I would call the folks who rebuilt the board for you.
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dcoco  
#7 Posted : Sunday, March 16, 2014 11:29:05 AM(UTC)
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dcoco

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Could it be the ribbon connection that connects the control board to the touch screen(front push button panel)

Dcoco:confused:
denman  
#8 Posted : Monday, March 17, 2014 12:38:28 AM(UTC)
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denman

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I doubt this is the cause.

The keyboard has it's own fault codes and you do not see these.

You could try disconnecting/reconnecting it.
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dcoco  
#9 Posted : Thursday, March 20, 2014 11:49:33 AM(UTC)
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dcoco

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I beleive I see the membrane ribbon cable is broken.If this is true then how do I repair this cable or do I find a new membrane touchpad.

Dcoco:confused:
denman  
#10 Posted : Friday, March 21, 2014 2:17:39 AM(UTC)
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Best to find a new touch pad but that may not be possible.

Ribbon cables are repairable but it is a bit of a pain.
First you have to measure the tracks with a meter to find which ones are open.
Next you have to find the crack in the copper track that is the open.
Then you have to remove the plastic coating on one side of the ribbon cable down to the copper track on around the open in the track.
This can be done with an exacto knife or a scalpel.
You then have to buy either a kit used to repair rear car defoggers or remote/switch/keypad repair kit.
Basically they are a glue that is impregnated with copper so that it conducts.
Now you have to bridge the open spot in the copper track.
You then have to tape something stiff at this repair so the cable cannot flex or bend at this point or the repair will just open again.
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