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Oven will lite, but not keep temp Options  Email this topic  Watch this topic  Print this topic » Normal Threaded
Model: SF114PXSB2	Brand: Whirlpool	Age: 5 - 10 years
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Willson		#1 Posted : Monday, November 18, 2013 3:46:12 PM(UTC) Quote Multi-Quote
Rank: Member Groups: Registered Joined: 11/18/2013(UTC) Posts: 5		I have a resident that says his oven will lite, get up to temperature but then it will shut off and not turn back on. It takes him a very long time to cook a pizza. I pushed cancel, cancel, start to see if there was an error code and only thing that shows up was CLR. I've already replaced the thermostat wire inside the oven, but that didn't help. Is this a control board problem?
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Appliance Ninja		#2 Posted : Monday, November 18, 2013 5:55:23 PM(UTC) Quote Multi-Quote
Rank: Member Groups: Registered Joined: 11/12/2013(UTC) Posts: 957		It could be a control issue but a weak igniter would be more likely. Does it take a long time to get to temperature initially? Will it eventually heat back up after it shuts off?
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Willson		#3 Posted : Monday, November 18, 2013 7:11:57 PM(UTC) Quote Multi-Quote
Rank: Member Groups: Registered Joined: 11/18/2013(UTC) Posts: 5		Hmm im not sure. Ill have to take a look at that tomorrow. I have a few extra ignitors, so ill try that before going any further. I just didn't want it to be a gas valve, after replacing the control board.
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Appliance Ninja		#4 Posted : Monday, November 18, 2013 7:18:01 PM(UTC) Quote Multi-Quote
Rank: Member Groups: Registered Joined: 11/12/2013(UTC) Posts: 957		I suspect it is a weak igniter. Let me know what you find!
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Willson		#5 Posted : Monday, November 18, 2013 7:22:48 PM(UTC) Quote Multi-Quote
Rank: Member Groups: Registered Joined: 11/18/2013(UTC) Posts: 5		I definitely will.
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Appliance Ninja		#6 Posted : Monday, November 18, 2013 7:23:49 PM(UTC) Quote Multi-Quote
Rank: Member Groups: Registered Joined: 11/12/2013(UTC) Posts: 957		Thank you!
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Willson		#7 Posted : Tuesday, November 19, 2013 2:25:03 PM(UTC) Quote Multi-Quote
Rank: Member Groups: Registered Joined: 11/18/2013(UTC) Posts: 5		I replaced the igniter and it fixed the problem. I did a ohms test on the good igniter it was about 225-230 and the bad one had 203-208. I never heard of one being weak. I just thought they either worked or not. Thank you.
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Appliance Ninja		#8 Posted : Tuesday, November 19, 2013 2:27:39 PM(UTC) Quote Multi-Quote
Rank: Member Groups: Registered Joined: 11/12/2013(UTC) Posts: 957		That is great news, nice work! They must draw at least 3.0 amps, preferably 3.2-3.8 through the gas valve bimetal to open the valve as designed. As they age, they get weak and draw less and eventually will not open the valve at all. Glad you got it working, great job! Also, thank you for posting the results, I appreciate that!
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Willson		#9 Posted : Wednesday, December 11, 2013 4:14:32 PM(UTC) Quote Multi-Quote
Rank: Member Groups: Registered Joined: 11/18/2013(UTC) Posts: 5		Sorry I thought this was resolved but... Resident came in yesterday and said that he is still having the same problem. He says it lights, it will run and then just go out and he has to relight it; I assume he means hit bake again. So would it be a new control board?
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