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When upper oven is put in bake mode, it heats very slowly. The display indicates that the bake and broil elements are activated alternately for several seconds each; however, it became apparent that the broil element was not heating up.
Switching the program from Bake to Broil showed that the Broil Element was not activated.
A resistance check of the Broiler Element showed that there was resistance of more that 100ohms. This would seem to indicate that the EOC Relay Bd has a problem.
Possible problem with the RTD should cause error codes F30 or F31 to appear for an open or shorted RTD. No error codes show up.
What is puzzling me is that the circuit diagram does not show a function which would alternate the broiler and bake elements on a timed basis, and K5, Bake Element relay and K3 Broil Element relay are both normally open, so both elements should turn on and stay on when power is applied.
Am I reading this correctly?
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[COLOR="Blue"]and K5, Bake Element relay and K3 Broil Element relay are both normally open, so both elements should turn on and stay on when power is applied.
Am I reading this correctly?[/COLOR]
No.
When the relay is not activated the contacts are open so no power goes to the element.
When activated the contacts close sending power to the element.
The control board electronics does this and alternates which element/relay is on.
Since you do not see an error and if the oven stays in preheat (never comes ready or takes a long time to come ready) your oven sensor is probably OK. The board knows that the oven is not hot enough and is trying to reach set point temperature but for some reason cannot.
Could be that the broil relay contacts are shot, that the relay coil is shot (open) or that the electronics that control the relay are bad. |
THIS FORUM IS DEAD!!!!!!! |
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Originally Posted by: denman  and K5, Bake Element relay and K3 Broil Element relay are both normally open, so both elements should turn on and stay on when power is applied.
Am I reading this correctly?
No.
When the relay is not activated the contacts are open so no power goes to the element.
When activated the contacts close sending power to the element.
The control board electronics does this and alternates which element/relay is on.
Since you do not see an error and if the oven stays in preheat (never comes ready or takes a long time to come ready) your oven sensor is probably OK. The board knows that the oven is not hot enough and is trying to reach set point temperature but for some reason cannot.
Could be that the broil relay contacts are shot, that the relay coil is shot (open) or that the electronics that control the relay are bad. It is morning now, and I am thinking a bit more clearly. The diagram only shows the relay contacts, not the coil. I will have to check the contacts when broil is activated to see if they close. If not, I am still left with the relay coil being bad, or bad electronics. How do I determine which without board replacement?
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A little electronics experience would be helpful here.
Appliance manufacturers do not publish board schematics so you will have to figure out where to measure.
You could measure the relay coil. Once you find the connections on the solder side of the board, measure it in both polarities. So the positive lead on one connection and the negative lead on the other and then swap them. The reason is that I do not know how the control electronics are hooked up so cannot say if they will effect the readings.
A better alternative would be to unsolder the relay from the board and then measure the coil.
If the relay contacts and the relay coil are OK then all that is left is the control electronics. |
THIS FORUM IS DEAD!!!!!!! |
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Originally Posted by: denman A little electronics experience would be helpful here.
Appliance manufacturers do not publish board schematics so you will have to figure out where to measure.
You could measure the relay coil. Once you find the connections on the solder side of the board, measure it in both polarities. So the positive lead on one connection and the negative lead on the other and then swap them. The reason is that I do not know how the control electronics are hooked up so cannot say if they will effect the readings.
A better alternative would be to unsolder the relay from the board and then measure the coil.
If the relay contacts and the relay coil are OK then all that is left is the control electronics. I was afraid you were going to say that! Looks like a bear of a job to get the relay board out of the confined space. Guess I don't have any alternative. Thanks for the help.
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