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#1 Posted : Tuesday, August 13, 2013 12:33:55 PM(UTC)
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I have a Whirlpool RBD305PDQ14 double wall oven that died a few months ago while on a self clean cycle. The control panel (p/n AP5272198) went black and the oven did not function at all. I had the local repair man come over and $300 later he told me I was in need of a new control panel. Not wanting to spend an additional $750 on parts and labor, I ordered the parts myself and replaced the Electronic Control Board & Motorized latch Sister Board myself. Oven still does not function. After power is restored it gives me a series of beeps and displays and F5 E1 error after the lock cycles from the unlocked position thru the locked position and back to the unlocked position. I have tried disconnecting power for a few minutes and holding down a button until it displays F2 E1, then pressing cancel. After that it goes back to the F5 E1 error. I'm hoping that someone who reads this can point me in the right direction to fixing this problem.
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HumboldtRepairMan  
#2 Posted : Tuesday, August 13, 2013 3:53:53 PM(UTC)
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HumboldtRepairMan

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First off self clean on most ovens are horrible we get alot of complaints after people use it because it frys or damages wires or components.........use a little elbow grease with cleaner and never use self clean which i'm sure you know now.......
F5 E1 means you need a new lock assembly/solenoid or your wiring or harness has damage from the self clean cycle examine all wires in that circuit if you see no damage or loose connectors i'd recommend replacing this part. It should have 120v going to it and it should cycle for a short time then stop...........if it doesn't stop it's a bad lock...........if you don't have 120v going to it then your main board or the wires coming from your main board are loose or damaged.
Whirlpool W10195934 Latch, Door - AppliancePartsPros.com
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#3 Posted : Monday, September 9, 2013 8:06:23 PM(UTC)
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I have replaced the Electronic control board, the latch control board, and now the latch, and guess what, oven still doesn't work. while the servo on the latch does not have 120v going in continuously, it does however, have 120v while its cycling. all of the insulation on the wiring is still intact and all connections look good. anybody have a wiring diagram handy?
HumboldtRepairMan  
#4 Posted : Tuesday, September 10, 2013 5:02:03 PM(UTC)
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HumboldtRepairMan

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Try manualowl.com
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