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Oven won't heat - need to check codes

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I have this gmc275pdq1 combo Microwave/Oven electric in wall. I ran the Self Clean cycle, and that started a bunch

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Old 07-27-2013, 11:51 AM
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Default Oven won't heat - need to check codes
Model Number: gmc275pdq1   Brand: Whirlpool   Age: More than 10 years   

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I have this gmc275pdq1 combo Microwave/Oven electric in wall.

I ran the Self Clean cycle, and that started a bunch of problems. I melted the lock assembly, so just replaced that.

Now the oven turns on, but it won't heat, and when I shut it off, it goes off immediately instead of the fan running like when it is full hot.

I was trying to run diagnostics to find any fault codes - I'm thinking it is the thermostat, but I don't want to just keep replacing parts until I find one that works

Any thoughts on next steps?

Thanks


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  #2 (permalink)  
Old 07-29-2013, 07:07 PM
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Friendly Bump. Just looking for a little direction and options if my oven isn't heating at all.

Thx
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Old 07-30-2013, 05:00 AM
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Here are your parts
Parts for Whirlpool GMC275PDQ1 Wall Oven - AppliancePartsPros.com

See the attachment for the tech sheet

Now the oven turns on, but it won't heat, and when I shut it off, it goes off immediately instead of the fan running like when it is full hot.
Since there is no heat there is no reason for the fan to cool the unit down after the oven is turned off.

I'm thinking it is the thermostat
I am not sure what thermostat you are referring to.

If you mean the oven sensor that is a possibility but the oven should show that it is ready if it is a sensor problem. Since it thinks it is ready it does not heat up.

If you mean the Thermal Overload thermostat (item 37 in the Oven Parts section) then this is a possibility as it does kill power to both elements. Remove power from the unit and check it with a meter. It should be 0 ohms.
It is fairly common for these to blow during a self clean cycle.

Check that the unit is getting 240 volts. Everything will work OK but the elements will not heat up if you have lost half the line and therefore only have 120 volts going to the unit.
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File Type: pdf GMC275.pdf (743.7 KB, 3 views)
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Old 07-30-2013, 08:14 AM
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Thanks for your reply. Unfortunatly something seems amiss - I do not have the Thermal Overload (#37) inside my oven. (unless it is on the back side since I have not removed it from the wall) The only thing I have is a long (~3") probe sticking into the oven in the upper right hand corner (above the right hand light). I don't see this on the parts pictures I have seen. This is one of the things that has been confusing me.....

Is there anyway to check the voltage to the unit without removing it from the wall?

Thanks again
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Old 07-30-2013, 09:02 AM
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I do not have the Thermal Overload (#37) inside my oven. (unless it is on the back side since I have not removed it from the wall)
It is on the back side

I don't see this on the parts pictures I have seen. This is one of the things that has been confusing me.....

They list it as item 29 in the Oven Parts section but it does not show up in the drawing. This is the oven sensor.

Is there anyway to check the voltage to the unit without removing it from the wall?
Cannot say for sure as it depends how it was installed but probably not.

You could try shutting the breaker off and then back on. Sometimes you can loose half the line without actually tripping the breaker
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Old 07-30-2013, 10:34 PM
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I finally got to the back. The Thermal Overload is completely open, reads no resistance at all. Sounds like it is blown. Hopefully that is the last thing I need to order.

Is it considered a bad idea to just short the 2 leads together to test the rest of the oven out? I expect it is.....
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Old 07-31-2013, 06:21 AM
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Is it considered a bad idea to just short the 2 leads together to test the rest of the oven out? I expect it is.....
Not a great idea but doable.

I am not recommending this but at the same time I can tell you that I would do it. Be sure that you monitor the oven temperature. This will allow you to check that it is regulating the temperature OK so should eliminate a bad oven sensor or control board as causing overheating.

The reason it is not recommended is human nature.
I have to bake something so I will use the oven just this once with the Thermal Overload shorted out. Then that went well and then it is I will just use it one more time and then it ends up the part never gets replaced and the house burns down.
So doing this is for test purposes only and only when the unit is being monitored.
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Old 08-02-2013, 07:06 AM
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Well it's fixed! Thanks for all your help. Latch assembly replaced. Thermal overload sensor replaced.

One thing that surprised me - the unit sits on a shelf, and isn't screwed down to anything, it just sits. I expected it to be mounted firmly. I did manage to break the shelf along the way as well and had to do repair to it before I could put the oven back in. It is always something.

thanks for all the help
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Old 08-07-2013, 02:39 AM
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You are welcome.

And thanks for getting back to us. Now when others search for a similar problem they will see what actually worked instead of just suggestions about what could be the cause.
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