[rskowron@us.ibm.com]

Thank you for your prior response, it is very much appreciated!

If I may, I would like to add one more thing to see if it changes your recommendation.

When I tested for continuity for each of the four electrodes in the two, two burner modules, I did it in two steps. I first disconnected the wire from the electrode, and check/verified continuity. I then reattached the wire, and checked for continuity from the main contact on the end of the module, to ensure there were no issues with the connecting wires, main contact and electrode as a unit. To be sure, I also wiggled the electrode while I did both of these continuity tests to ensure there was any kinda of break in the ceramic of the electrode. I did not see/find any apparent issues with the wires that would cause any shorting.

I have a Jenn-Air 30" Designer Line Gas Downdraft Cooktop. I have a second Two-Burner Module installed, so there are four gas burners. It used to be when I would turn one of the four gas burners' control valve to 'Lite', all four ignitors on each of the burners would have a good blue spark. Now, when I turn on any of the control valves to 'Lite', I hear a clicking noise but no apparent spark at any of the burners. I have tried moving each of my two-Burner modules to both sides of the cooktop, as well as only having one installed on either side, but still have no spark but a clicking noise. But, if I install the two burner gas assembly for the optional griddle on the left side, it sparks when I turn on either of the left control valves and lights up immediately. I did check and verify for continuity for all of the four ignitors on the 2 two burner modules, The only difference I can see from the griddle two gas burner assembly and the two burner modules is that the electrodes for the griddle two gas burner assembly are longer by around 25% than the ones on each of the two burner modules. I did also test the clearance for these electrodes in the Receptacle, which I believe is out of tolerance to the point where I have lost continuity for each of the two burner modules, but not for the longer electrode griddle two burner assembly. Does this make sense? And if it does, would it make sense also to replace the Spark Module at the same time I replace the two receptacles? Thank you for any insight or help you can provide!

Bob S. for Model Number Jenn-Air JGD8130ADS

ANSWER Hello Bob, It sounds like you are on the right track, but before you order parts, you should try disassembling the top of the unit far enough to make sure you haven't lost a ground and none of the ignitor wires are arcing to ground from a breach in the insulation. I even had one case where the spark module was arcing to ground to a spill that landed beside it. If the wiring all looks good and the ignitors test good, I would start with the spark module. If the ignitors are to be replaced, I would replace the ignitor wires also because a bad ignitor will cause the high tension voltage to make its' own path to ground in the next easiest place fort the current to flow. This usually destroys the insulation on the wires at some point.

Answered by AppliancePartsPros.com | Monday, June 03, 2013