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Bake element not working. Thermostat or Controller board?

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I own a frigidaire professional series built-in oven model CPEB30S9FC1 that is approximately 7 years old. A few weeks ago

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Old 05-12-2013, 05:40 PM
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Default Bake element not working. Thermostat or Controller board?
Model Number: CPEB30S9FC1   Brand: Frigidaire   Age: 5 - 10 years   

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I own a frigidaire professional series built-in oven model CPEB30S9FC1 that is approximately 7 years old. A few weeks ago while cooking pizza at 400 degrees smoke started coming out of the oven after 20 minutes and the oven started to give out a continuous beep and the control panel showed me F10. Clearly the oven hit a high temperature and burned the pizza. The oven was completely unresponsive and would not turn off at which point I had to cut the breaker. After the over cooled down I turned the breaker back on and reset the oven clock. I attempted to use the oven and bake again but the heating element would not get hot at all. I then cut the breaker again and left it off for a few days. I attempted again to use the oven with the same results. Since then I have had the following observations and trying to figure if its the oven controller board or the Shut-Off thermostat.

1) When I kill the power to the oven with the breaker and leave it off for a few hours then turn it back on, the bake element works until it reaches the temperature I set at which point the element goes off but it never comes back on again. No F10/Runaway Temperature.

2) Broil works and the broil element works 100% with proper temperature. The broil element goes on and off as expected when the desired temperature is reached. No runaway when the broil is working.

3) I checked the OHMS on temperature sensor and it comes back back normal at approximately 1K (per company spec).

4) I verified the bake element and it works 100%. No issues.

5) I checked electrical power on the bake element terminals with the oven running and set at 350, and there is LOW power...

Here is where things get complicated.

1) Although I have the electrical schematic of the oven, It's not easy for me to trace the wires coming to the front of the oven on the controller board to see if the thermostat has continuity. I know the thermostat is in the back off the oven but pulling out the oven to test it DIRECTLY is NOT easy. The previous homeowner poorly installed the oven and would require me to dismantle a huge section of my kitchen cabinet to pull it out and so Im trying to trace the wires to the controller up front.

2) I don't see any electrical issue with the controller board (cold solder, burned relay) and the board works properly in terms of the time, buttons, etc but don't know of a way to properly know if the electronic temperature controller works or not.

So...

If the issue was the thermostat why would the broil element work 100% and not the bake element? Is the thermostat also connected to the broil or does it work separately for some reason?

If the issue is the controller board why would it work for broil and not bake? Wouldn't it simply not work for either and also have issues with keeping time, buttons not working, etc?

I'm trying to minimize my cost and time in repairing the oven. The controller is real easy to replace but if I buy a new controller and its not the issue I'm out $300. Of course if it is the issue then I'm ahead of the game in other ways..

If I assume it's the thermostat and go through all the trouble of pulling out my cabinets and the oven to replace it while cheap, would easily take up the better part of a day and risk the possibility of damaging the cabinet.

I have read in numerous forums that Frigidaire ovens are horrible and its a common problem but since there are so many variables with mine, not sure how to proceed.

If anyone has any idea about better diagnosing the controller I would greatly appreciate it...Thanks so much!


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Old 05-13-2013, 04:16 AM
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Here are your parts
Parts for Frigidaire CPEB30S9FC1 Wall Oven - AppliancePartsPros.com

Here is your wiring diagram
http://manuals.frigidaire.com/prodin.../318046235.pdf

1) No F10/Runaway Temperature.
Not sure why you no longer get an F10. Could be another part of the circuit has blown out.

2) Broil works and the broil element works 100% with proper temperature.
This indicates that the temperature sensor and the safety thermostat are OK

3) I checked the OHMS on temperature sensor and it comes back back normal at approximately 1K (per company spec).

This looks OK.

4) I verified the bake element and it works 100%. No issues.

5) I checked electrical power on the bake element terminals with the oven running and set at 350, and there is LOW power...
Not sure what you mean by low power or how you measured it.

Here is where things get complicated.

1) Although I have the electrical schematic of the oven, It's not easy for me to trace the wires coming to the front of the oven on the controller board to see if the thermostat has continuity. I know the thermostat is in the back off the oven

I doubt it is the safety thermostat as it kills power to all the elements.
FYI: L2 voltage goes thru the Safety Thermostat, then thru the DLB relay (double line brake) K4 on the board to the right hand side of all the elements.
The element control relays K5, K6 and K14 then control the L1 voltage to the left hand side of the elements.

2) I don't see any electrical issue with the controller board (cold solder, burned relay) and the board works properly in terms of the time, buttons, etc but don't know of a way to properly know if the electronic temperature controller works or not.
Electronic parts can blow without any physical indication that they are blown.

If the issue was the thermostat why would the broil element work 100% and not the bake element?
It should not if the wiring diagram is correct.

Is the thermostat also connected to the broil or does it work separately for some reason?

Looks like it is connected to all elements.

If the issue is the controller board why would it work for broil and not bake? Wouldn't it simply not work for either and also have issues with keeping time, buttons not working, etc?
No. The control relays have their own control circuitry.

I'm trying to minimize my cost and time in repairing the oven. The controller is real easy to replace but if I buy a new controller and its not the issue I'm out $300.

If you order the board from AppliancePartsPros you can return it if it does not solve your problem. Please see their return policy.

If I assume it's the thermostat
I doubt it is the thermostat. I am assuming that by thermostat you mean the oven sensor. The unit knew it had an over temperature condition and it is the oven sensor that detects the temperature.

If anyone has any idea about better diagnosing the controller I would greatly appreciate it...
The usual way is to check everything else. If that is OK then all that is left is the control board.

One thing I would check is how the bake element looks when it does run.
Does the entire element get red or does just part of it get red. Sometimes an element can short out where the metal feet that hold it up are attached. This then shorts to the frame and you have 120 volts across that part of the element and the control board cannot control the temperature.

If it looks OK then I would replace the control board.
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Old 05-13-2013, 09:16 AM
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1) I don't think I get the F10 Runaway Temp anymore simply because the bake element doesn't get hot enough. But again, the broil element is perfectly controlled.

2) I put my meter on the bake element terminals and measured less than 100 volts on the bake element.

3) If I am reading the exploded diagram of the oven internals there seems to be multiple thermostats (?) I know the electrical schematic shows one but look at the assembly diagram here:

Body parts for Frigidaire CPEB30S9FC1 - AppliancePartsPros.com

Indicates 119 (Switch, Thermal) , 219 (Thermostat), 219A.. No idea how to interpret this..

4) Thanks SO much for info on how the wiring of thermostat to relay to element works (and it make sense now) but when you say "to the right hand side of all the elements" is that facing the element (terminals away from or how it sits in the oven) or terminals facing me ? So is it right to say that I can test continuity of thermostat but placing one multimeter probe on the L2 (Red) and the right of the Bake Element. Or am I completely off?

5) I am not mixing the temperature sensor and thermostat as the same. The Temp sensor that's inside the oven and sticks out like a pencil works as I get a 1K resistance from it..Thermostat is what I mentioned in point #3 above.

Lastly, you got me thinking about the bake element now with your final comment...

I'm going to test and check the bake element again. It does glow fully red after I do the whole reset the oven with the breaker off procedure. But again, after the oven reaches desired temp first time, it never glows again red again. Just stays warm. I carefully inspected the element and there are no cracks or breaks anywhere. Can I test for resistance on the element?

Let me add that I do hear the relay "clicking on" when I set the oven to bake but again, nothing happens...

Thanks so much...
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Old 05-14-2013, 03:06 AM
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2) I put my meter on the bake element terminals and measured less than 100 volts on the bake element.
This may just be ghost voltage

3) If I am reading the exploded diagram of the oven internals there seems to be multiple thermostats (?) I know the electrical schematic shows one but look at the assembly diagram here:
Indicates 119 (Switch, Thermal) , 219 (Thermostat), 219A.. No idea how to interpret this..

119 will be the safety thermostat in the R6 line (L2 voltage to the elements)
You will notice a red button on it's back side. This pops out when it opens and can be reset by pushing it in.
219 is the fan hold thermostat in the R5 line (bottom right of wiring diagram)

4) but when you say "to the right hand side of all the elements" is that facing the element (terminals away from or how it sits in the oven) or terminals facing me ?
No right hand side when you look at the wiring diagram (not in the actual unit.

So is it right to say that I can test continuity of thermostat but placing one multimeter probe on the L2 (Red) and the right of the Bake Element.
No, because power must be off when checking continuity and therefore the K4 relay will be open so the element is not connected to the thermostat.


Can I test for resistance on the element?

Yes, they are usually around 20 ohms.
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Old 05-15-2013, 05:10 PM
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Default More fun...And bizarre behaviour..

Out of curiosity, this morning I turned on the oven to bake at its maximum of 550. To my surprise it actually started to heat up and the whole element glowed full red. No issues around the feet(s) of the element so the element is good.

However, after 15 minutes, the F10 runaway alarm went off. The element would not shut off and still glowed red. I had to shut oven off from the breaker.

A few hours later after it cooled down, I again started the oven again at 250. Nothing. Then 350, nothing. Then again at 550 it started working and heating up again full blast. I did not let it go to runaway temperature, instead after 10 minutes, I set the temperature down to 350. The oven gave out its "temp reached" beep since it obviously achieved it with the oven originally set to 550 and the element turned off. I heard the relay switch off as well as the bake element panel indicator going off. I left it running at 350 to see if it would go back on. After 30 minutes, the temp inside went below 350 to around 200 (i used a cooking thermometer to check) but the bake element would not go on.

So it looks like at full power (550 degrees) bake element fires up but wont shut down. At a lower temperature it does not start at all but from 550 and going down, the oven does detect proper temp and turns element off.

I let the oven cool down again and this time just used the broil element and it fires up properly and turns off when the desired temp is reached..

Does any of this make sense at all? Does it still point to issues with the controller board?

Thanks
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Old 05-16-2013, 02:38 AM
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Does it still point to issues with the controller board?
Yes, at least that is the part I would replace.
A bad board can do all sorts of weird things.
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Old 05-20-2013, 04:26 PM
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And now things get more complicated. I looked at the diagram of my oven again:

Body parts for Frigidaire CPEB30S9FC1 - AppliancePartsPros.com

And there is a part #112 that is labeled Relay.Is this the relay that might need to be replaced or ones on the controller board? I have no clue what relay part #112 is for?
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Old 05-22-2013, 02:35 AM
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Relay 112 is probably the cooling relay (lower right hand side in the wiring diagram).

Sorry for not getting back to you sooner but I was at the cottage for a few days.
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Old 05-22-2013, 07:03 AM
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NO worries. Thanks again...
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