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Frigidaire Oven FGF328GMD wont heat up. All the stove top gas burners work fine, the bottom glows like it is

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Old 05-07-2013, 04:18 PM
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Default Frigidaire Oven Wont Heat Up
Model Number: FGF328GMD   Brand: -brand-   Age: Less than 1 year   

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Frigidaire Oven FGF328GMD wont heat up. All the stove top gas burners work fine, the bottom glows like it is working, and the oven will get warm. It will not heat up to the desired cooking temperature.

Please ask questions.

Thanks in advance,
Matt


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  #2 (permalink)  
Old 05-08-2013, 02:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GHog View Post
Frigidaire Oven FGF328GMD wont heat up. All the stove top gas burners work fine, the bottom glows like it is working, and the oven will get warm. It will not heat up to the desired cooking temperature.

Please ask questions.

Thanks in advance,
Matt
Matt, Is the range operating on Natural or LP Gas ? Have you removed the oven bottom panel and flame spreader, or removed the broiler drawer and checked the oven burner for dirty or clogged venturi openings? If or when the burner ignites, are the flames a "double" blue colored flame and approximately 1.5 to 2 inches in length, and is the burner flames complete from end to end and on both sides of the burner? How long does it take to reach temperature ? On average, it should take 15 to 20 minutes from initial ignition to reach temperature, then should maintain temperature from then on.
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Old 05-08-2013, 03:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Joe / APP Team View Post
Matt, Is the range operating on Natural or LP Gas ? Have you removed the oven bottom panel and flame spreader, or removed the broiler drawer and checked the oven burner for dirty or clogged venturi openings? If or when the burner ignites, are the flames a "double" blue colored flame and approximately 1.5 to 2 inches in length, and is the burner flames complete from end to end and on both sides of the burner? How long does it take to reach temperature ? On average, it should take 15 to 20 minutes from initial ignition to reach temperature, then should maintain temperature from then on.
1. Natural Gas
2. I have removed the bottom panel and drawer.
3. I will need to double check the burner and flames.
4. It use to only take a couple of mins to get up to temp. 15-20 mins? That doesn't seem normal to me.

Thanks,
Matt
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Old 05-08-2013, 03:45 PM
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UPDATE: there is no flame in the oven. Just the igniter lighting up, but no flame

There is little valve where the gas line goes in, does this affect anything?

Thanks,
Matt
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Old 05-09-2013, 06:20 AM
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UPDATE: there is no flame in the oven. Just the igniter lighting up, but no flame

There is little valve where the gas line goes in, does this affect anything?

Thanks,
Matt
Matt, Thanks for the update. You most likely have a "weak" igniter

Part number: AP3963555

Part number: AP3963555


Based on your description. If you can get access to a "clamp on" ammeter or multi meter, you could test the ignition system. When you turn the oven on, and the igniter "glows" there should be a 3.2 to 3.6 amp draw on one of the wires to the igniter. If you use a multi meter there should be 3.2 to 3.6 VAC on the wires that attach to the safety valve " little valve where the gas line goes in.". The Igniter has to produce the amps or volts in order to open the gas valve and the bake burner to ignite.
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Old 05-09-2013, 06:46 AM
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Originally Posted by Joe / APP Team View Post
Matt, Thanks for the update. You most likely have a "weak" igniter

Part number: AP3963555

Part number: AP3963555


Based on your description. If you can get access to a "clamp on" ammeter or multi meter, you could test the ignition system. When you turn the oven on, and the igniter "glows" there should be a 3.2 to 3.6 amp draw on one of the wires to the igniter. If you use a multi meter there should be 3.2 to 3.6 VAC on the wires that attach to the safety valve " little valve where the gas line goes in.". The Igniter has to produce the amps or volts in order to open the gas valve and the bake burner to ignite.
Thanks Joe.

Can I use a generic igniter to replace the one I have, or buy the actual part? Just trying to save money.

I will test it first, like you mentioned.

So what does the little valve do. It is on the little box where the gas line connects. It looks like it have three settings, but I'm not sure what they mean.
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Old 05-09-2013, 09:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GHog View Post
Thanks Joe.

Can I use a generic igniter to replace the one I have, or buy the actual part? Just trying to save money.

I will test it first, like you mentioned.

So what does the little valve do. It is on the little box where the gas line connects. It looks like it have three settings, but I'm not sure what they mean.
GHog, It is recommended you use the manufacturers recommended parts, to maintain the integrity and operation of the appliance. If you decide to use a "generic" igniter, you may want to use

Part number: AP4012072

Part number: AP4012072


It's been dependable and reliable in the past, and is pretty "universal"

You've lost us with the statement "what does the little valve do. It is on the little box where the gas line connects. It looks like it has three settings, but I'm not sure what they mean".

There is the regulator

Part number: AP2125390

Part number: AP2125390


This controls the gas pressure into the range and distribute it to the top burner valves and oven safety valve. It does have three openings one inlet from the wall connection, two outlets, one to the top burners and one the oven burner and a pressure relief valve, under the plastic cap, but none are adjustable.

Then there's the safety valve

Part number: AP2131109

Part number: AP2131109


It has one inlet from the regulator and one outlet to the bake burner, And two terminals to attach the igniter wire and neutral leg of the wire harness. It does have an adjustable orifice hood, but that's about it. Both components mount to a "bracket" (little box). Other than the top burner gas valves, we're not aware of any gas control components that have "settings" a consumer can/should adjust or set.
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Old 05-09-2013, 09:25 AM
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[quote=Joe / APP Team;812837]

You've lost us with the statement "what does the little valve do. It is on the little box where the gas line connects. It looks like it has three settings, but I'm not sure what they mean".

There is the regulator


I will try to take a picture of it tonight for you. It is direct opposite (left side) from where the gas line connects the the stove the "little box".

It may be a regulator. It seems though that moving it one way, you get an odor of gas, and in one position you do not. It says something on it, and it moves like a switch. I will have to look at it again.
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Old 05-09-2013, 09:32 AM
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http://manuals.frigidaire.com/prodin...16259336en.pdf

See page 4 of this manual, Fig. 4f.

This is the little valve i was talking about, does the setting matter and what does it do.
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Old 05-09-2013, 09:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GHog View Post
http://manuals.frigidaire.com/prodin...16259336en.pdf

See page 4 of this manual, Fig. 4f.

This is the little valve i was talking about, does the setting matter and what does it do.
Thanks, after reading your last post description, we were going to send you the same information.

The little "lever" on the regulator, is the "service shut off valve"
When you flip the lever down in the "OFF" position, it stops the gas flow into the regulator. This allows you to service the internal gas lines and components without moving the range away from the wall and shutting the gas off at the wall valve. If you accidentally put the lever down in the "off" position, you do have to raise it and "lock" it in the up / "on" position, for the range burners to ignite and have flames.

" Make sure service shut-off valve on pressure regulator is in the "ON" position."

In most cases, when the lever is down you can read the word "off" on the top of the lever.
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