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Range dead?

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Oven Repair (including Ranges and Cooktops)

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I had the oven preheating and heard the circuit breaker pop loudly. Now the range looks dead, no lights, nada.

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Old 04-30-2013, 09:32 AM
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Default Range dead?
Model Number: 790.9601   Brand: Kenmore   Age: 5 - 10 years   

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I had the oven preheating and heard the circuit breaker pop loudly. Now the range looks dead, no lights, nada. I waited, reset the breaker, placed the mini line tester against the electrical cord coming out of the wall and found the line is live. (I'm afraid to put that tiny little device right into a 220 outlet.) I unplugged the range and plugged it in again but it is still dead.

BTW, I installed a microwave fan a few years ago and cut into the live 220 going to the range. Yes, I'm a bonehead. It was some time ago but I think I cut just a few strands of the thick copper wire before all the sparks and smoke lead me to believe something was wrong. I repaired the line as well as I could and carried on. I'm guessing this may be a future problem although losing computers and appliances has been routine with the power fluctuations and outages in our area.

Any advice other than "try not to kill yourself" is greatly appreciated.


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  #2 (permalink)  
Old 05-01-2013, 05:32 AM
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Your model number seems to be missing several digits at the end of it.
Sears/Kenmore model numbers are usually 3 digits, a period and then another eight digits.

Also I am not sure what you mean by "microwave fan"
Is this an above stove microwave that also includes an exhaust fan?

If it is then this is definitely a bad situation.
Microwaves pull a fair amount of current and although not part of most electrical codes it is advisable to have them on a separate line.
Also depending on the type of microwave they can cause spikes on the line as the magnetron turns on/off.

I do not know what type of mini line tester you are using but if it is one with just idiot lights then in my opinion it is pretty useless especially when working with a 240 volt circuit. Get yourself a proper multimeter and then check the power.

You can get a decent digital multimeter for under $20.00. You do not need fancy though it is nice if the leads are a couple feet long.
If it saves ordering one unnecessary part it has paid for itself and you end up owning a useful tool.
Most places will not let you return electrical parts so if you order it, you own it.
A couple things to watch when measuring ohms and continuity
1. Always remove power from the machine otherwise you could blow your meter.
2. Always disconnect at least one side of any device you are checking. This eliminates the possibility of measuring an alternate/parallel circuit path.
3. When checking for closed contacts and continuity use the lowest scale (Usually 200 ohms). Then try higher scales. This scale is 0 to 200 ohms so if the device you are measuring is 300 ohms this scale would show an open circuit which it is not, you are just measuring outside the scale's dynamic range.
4. When you start always short the meter leads together. This will tell you that the meter is working and if there is any 0 offset.

There is a good STICKY at the start of this forum about it's use.
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