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Good Day I have a GE Monogram Cooktop ZGU375NSD2SS I am been working on getting this cooktop back to 100%

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  #1 (permalink)  
Old 04-02-2013, 12:22 PM
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Default constant clicking from only 1 burner
Model Number: ZGU375NSD2SS   Brand: GE   Age: 5 - 10 years   

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Good Day I have a GE Monogram Cooktop ZGU375NSD2SS

I am been working on getting this cooktop back to 100% working condition.

I got a bunch of parts out of another unit to replace (used parts), here is what I have replaced so far
1. Transformer
2. Ignition Module
3. Ingitor switch (on Right Rear burner valve)
4. Wire harness from Ignition Module
5. Gas valve (I replaced LR,Middle Rear,Right Rear)

Let me explain the problem I have, If I turn on any burner other than Right Rear the gas will come on the ignitor will start sparking and light the burner and then stop sparking.

However if I turn the knob for the right rear the gas will flow to the burner, the ignitor will start arcing, the burner will light but the ignitor will continue to click the burner.

I am thinking maybe I have a bad ignitor assembly is bad or what ever tells the ignitor to stop sparking. I may try swapping the front and rear burner to see if it follows the problem. *UPDATE* I have swapped the RR and RF assemblies and RR continues to have same problem.

What I like to know is how to do I test the ignition module itself to make sure all the channel are working properly. I have a multimeter if there is a procedure for me try.

I also like to know how to test the ignitor switch, and the ignitor assembly. *UPDATED I have figured out how to test the ignitor switch a simple continunity test with shows if position is in it off state there is no continuity, any other position shows continuity. I tested another switch to figure that out the first one I had was bad.
Thank you


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Last edited by carlosrg : 04-03-2013 at 07:02 AM. Reason: bad grammer :-)
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  #2 (permalink)  
Old 04-02-2013, 05:25 PM
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Hi.

To check if it's bad ignitor or spark module switch around two ignitor cables at the module.The one in question with a good one.

P.S. Did you replace all ignitor switches?

Post the results.

Simon.
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Old 04-03-2013, 07:17 AM
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I will try that next as switching the burner assemblies didn't seem to fix the problem.

Another piece of information the ignitor switch that went with RR burner was bad. I am also starting to wonder if the ignitor switch that I replaced it with is also bad. I would think the ignitor switch should only latch on at specific location which would be 90 degrees counter clockwise of the resting position. The one I replaced it with latches on at 90 degrees and almost all the way back to resting position. I would think that ignitor switch would only latch on at say 90 degree CCW only else there would have to be another mechanism to let the ignitor know to stop activating. Can anyone explain how ignitor knows to stop working?

Do these switches have a specific polarity?

My next step is to move the switch from a properly working burner, and then trying to use another channel on the ignition module, and checking the ground wire near that burner as well.
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Old 04-03-2013, 05:53 PM
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Hi.

First of all there are two different type switches you have there. They differ in the mounting angle.So use the same type when switching them.
The spark ic controlled by the spark module. The spark module is sensing the flame and turn the ignitor off.If you blow the flame off the ignitor, the spark should start again.

Simon.
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