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Thermador Control Board Part#486752 removal

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Our Thermador duel fuel range model #RDDS30VRS ser.#FD30200005 was just diagnosed by a repair technician (who works for a new

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Old 03-27-2013, 11:38 AM
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Question Thermador Control Board Part#486752 removal
Model Number: RDDS30VRS   Brand: Thermador   Age: More than 10 years   

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Our Thermador duel fuel range model #RDDS30VRS ser.#FD30200005 was just diagnosed by a repair technician (who works for a new appliance retail store) as having a bad main control board part#486752. The burners and broiler all still work fine, only the oven is not working. The technician recommended buying a new range (which is expensive). I have found that if I remove the control board, I can send it to a service for rebuilding (for a reasonable price).

How difficult is it to get to and remove this board, and then re-install after the rebuilt board comes back? I am a fairly handy guy. I'm not intimated by shutting off gas and power and unscrewing stuff to get to it. I'm just concerned if there is the potential of having to remove something that might be seized, and breaking it in the process.

Also, are rebuilt boards considered reliable? Any experience out there with installing rebut control boards?

Finally, would someone be able to direct me to a diagram/instructions on getting to and removing the control board. I called Thermador, and they will not release their diagrams to consumers, only authorized service people.

Thanks in advance for help.


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  #2 (permalink)  
Old 05-03-2013, 06:18 AM
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Default BSH 486752 Range Control

I have exactly the same issue with a Dual fuel slide in range
Thermador RDS30 SS that is 10 yrs old. I am hoping to get the answer here or will have to contact Theramdor I suppose. I have never had an appliance that could not be repaired and I spent more money on this than most.
This whole experience has been upsetting.

Thanks
Dorothy
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Old 05-03-2013, 06:51 AM
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Default control board

cut off power. open oven door. the bottom of the glass frame should have a couple of screws to remove on each side. the glass frame should slide down and come off. remove the knobs. the glass will tilt out from the bottom. BE CAREFUL WITH GLASS, YOU CAN'T GET ANOTHER ONE. this will give you access to control, ie clock. I have had good experience with having the control rebuilt. it is doubtful you can get a new one anyway.
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Old 05-03-2013, 07:03 AM
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Default

Thanks so much. I did find a place that rebuilds and I did find a place that no longer rebuilds but has new ones for 400+. I am going to give the rebuild a whirl. I will take pictures before removal so I remember how to do it. Is it a matter of unplugging things from the board, like on a PC motherboard?

Thanks so much!
Dorothy
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Old 05-04-2013, 08:31 AM
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Default control board

these boards will have some plug on wires so make sure you make yourself a correct diagram. wires will be numbered and the board will have writing at each post. if you have problems, i can send you a wiring diagram. good luck
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Old 05-04-2013, 08:01 PM
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Thanks again. I plan to do this this weekend
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Old 05-08-2013, 09:59 AM
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Default Confused

I removed the glass, it slid down and came off. Now I am faced with a metal area and the control area is sitting there with a foil line across the bottom.
I am not sure how much farther I have to go to get this control panel off.



Quote:
Originally Posted by scott5495 View Post
cut off power. open oven door. the bottom of the glass frame should have a couple of screws to remove on each side. the glass frame should slide down and come off. remove the knobs. the glass will tilt out from the bottom. BE CAREFUL WITH GLASS, YOU CAN'T GET ANOTHER ONE. this will give you access to control, ie clock. I have had good experience with having the control rebuilt. it is doubtful you can get a new one anyway.

Last edited by dpollock : 05-08-2013 at 10:14 AM.
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Old 05-08-2013, 04:59 PM
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Default control board

sorry. the metal plate is screwed down. remove the screws holding the plate to the range frame and lift out from bottom. then clock can be removed. the foil at the clock needs to be put back on as it protects the face from heat.
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Old 05-08-2013, 06:05 PM
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Default

Thanks. I struggled with it and saw 2 screws on the side with a bracket of sorts that finally released the shield. Then removing the wires was a horror. 2 were almost soldered they were so tight. one of the metal pieces got loose and another pulled right out. The lady I spoke to at ************************ was reassuring that that would be ok. I even scratched the front and she may have a piece to fix that, we shall see. The struggle with this thing was insane. Do repair folks use a tool to pull these wires off?

I have always used people to fix things as I feel it's safer etc but this being out of stock put me here.

Not gonna lie, I was very stressed.
I have a microwave whose display died ( sharp over counter R-1214 ),
I thought if this is easy, I may look into that as it is too old to fix by a shop. Now I dunno ;=)


If this all assembles back
and works, I will be so happy.

Thermador has beenunhelpful and I am done with them forever.


I am going to have to find out who has the most reliable slide in 30 inch gas range in case this does not work out.

I cannot thank YOU enough for your help!

I may be back at reassembly time...Dorothy
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Old 05-18-2013, 07:28 PM
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Default

RESOLVED

Today I had a 2nd tech company come and guess what? The first tech who refused to recheck the element after the rebuilt control board was in left a wire off of the element. Tech today connected it and voila' lit right up.
So I had to pay 170.00 for the errors of the first guy.

At least I was able to replace the control board and know I did it ok.

Thanks again

Update: Hi again,
The gas burner issue was killing me so I undid everything and I
realized that I had the black wires incorrect. I fixed that and I gave
the ignition back and flame on all 4 burners.

Alas I still have no oven element lighting up. Broiler and convect fan are ok.

At least I have a stove stop again and I guess it's additional info
for you that on this range the black wires ( not the fabric one ) need
to be correct. In case anyone runs into that gas burners issue.

So...I have literally come full circle and have a replacement control element and no oven element working.

===== old message ====

Well I went on vacation after removing it. Cut power to it so the kids used a match to light the burners. Only the 2 right burners worked. I recall that happened during hurricane Sandy too.

Control panel got repaired and I had a hard time getting it back in today ...horrid actually... I followed all the wire diagrams from the manual and my photos.

Turned on the electric and immediately saw that the clock was much brighter.

But now the oven still does not work and now the burners up top do not go on without a match. It's like they have no electric. No clicking or anything but the gas flows to the right front and back burners.

So I am actually worse off than before. So sorry I ever started this.
It seemed straightforward but getting that control panel and metal shield back on was a misery and a half.

Any ideas what I have done wrong?

Dorothy

Last edited by dpollock : 05-29-2013 at 08:25 AM.
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