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Stovetop burner not igniting without blowing

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Recently I replaced some of the burner tubing for my stove and after the replacement I noticed that one of

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Old 03-25-2013, 09:44 AM
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Default Stovetop burner not igniting without blowing
Model Number: Super Capacity 465   Brand: Whirlpool   Age: More than 10 years   

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Recently I replaced some of the burner tubing for my stove and after the replacement I noticed that one of my burners will not ignite unless i blow into it while it is trying to ignite.

I've done some initial research into what the problem might be and I've already cleaned the burner grate area of any food particles, but I'm still having the same issue. When I turn the burner on I can hear the clicking sound and see a spark coming from the ignitor but the burner will not ignite unless I blow into the burner.

Any ideas what the issue may be?


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Last edited by -Ronin- : 03-25-2013 at 09:46 AM.
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Old 03-25-2013, 10:57 AM
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Hi.

Please provide the complete model number of the unit and part number of what you replaced.

Thank you.

Simon.
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Old 03-25-2013, 11:20 AM
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These are the parts I ordered a month ago:

AP3081574 (8273695) Burner tubing 1 $24.41

AP3081572 (8273699) Tubing, burner w/orifice (left front) 1 $25.68

I'm not in front of the oven at the moment so I can't get the model # right now but here is the parts page for the Super Capacity 465 model: Parts for WHIRLPOOL SUPER CAPACITY 465 - AppliancePartsPros.com
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Old 03-25-2013, 11:43 AM
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Actually just got it. Model number SF357PEKW
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Old 03-25-2013, 01:05 PM
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Hi.

Several things.

The pilot holes in the burner head must be clean.
Clean the ignitor tip with the fine sand paper.
Use a needle to clean the burner orifice.

What was the reason to replace those parts?

Simon.
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Old 03-25-2013, 01:19 PM
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I replaced the parts because i accidentally ruptured them while trying to clean the stove top. I lifted the stove top up without first unscrewing the burners which then caused strain on the tubing, resulting in the rupture. Only the front 2 burner tubes were ruptured so i replaced those 2.

However after that I've started to have issues with the front right burner igniting on its own. I've already cleaned the orifice with a needle but should i try cleaning the ignitor tip? Also when you say pilot holes you mean the openings on the sides of the burner orifice?
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Old 03-25-2013, 02:04 PM
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I'd like to make sure, that we are on the same page.The orifice is the brass tip at end of the gas line you replaced.
The "pilot holes" are the openings around the burner HEAD allowing the gas to flow outside and ignite.

Simon.
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Old 03-25-2013, 02:29 PM
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Ah ok got you. The burner orifice *should* be clean right? I mean its relatively brand new. If i was to clean it with a needle would i just basically stick the needle through the hole a few times to clear it of any food particles?

I've already cleaned the burner head pilot holes so i guess i can try cleaning the igniter tip with fine sand paper.
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Old 03-25-2013, 04:34 PM
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Hello,

Inspect the ceramic part of the ignition electrode for a micro cracks. Make sure it is properly attached to the burner base.

How good did you tight the screws secured the burner head to the burner base?

It is very important to have the ignition electrode at proper level.

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Last edited by Gene : 04-08-2013 at 11:33 AM.
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Old 03-26-2013, 08:12 AM
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I had a chance to take a good look at the burner base this morning and after inspecting the ceramic part of the ignition electrode for and micro cracks I wasnt able to find any. Also the screws secured to the burner head appeared to be tight.

I wasnt able to get any fine sandpaper to clean the tip of the ignitor tip yet, so i just used a handtowel for the time being.

Its weird because sometimes i can just turn the burner on and it ignites the first time, sometimes it takes a few tries and sometimes it wont ignite at all unless I blow into it. Any other suggestions?
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