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hawkeye1315  
#1 Posted : Wednesday, September 30, 2009 6:44:15 AM(UTC)
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hawkeye1315

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Joined: 9/30/2009(UTC)
Posts: 1

Hi,

Done a lot of reading on this board, problem is still not resolved. Whirlpool Model #GJP84902, oven bake element stopped working. Removed original element, found pitted, measured no resistance. Replaced with new element, resistance measured (can't quite remember value, but it was either 28 Ohms or 40 Ohms I think). With oven on, past pre-heat (broiler element is OK), measured voltage between each terminal and ground = 100 V-AC. Voltage between the 2 terminals however, measured 0 V. Can't find a breaker/fuse on wiring diagram for bake element, only found for 2 electrical outlets. Not sure what to do next, is it the relay? If it is the relay, can someone post a picture of it?

Thanks in advance.
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Monterro  
#2 Posted : Tuesday, November 10, 2009 5:46:57 PM(UTC)
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Monterro

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Posts: 2

Done a lot of reading on this board, problem is still not resolved. Whirlpool Model #GJP84902, oven bake element stopped working. Removed original element, found pitted, measured no resistance. Replaced with new element, resistance measured (can't quite remember value, but it was either 28 Ohms or 40 Ohms I think). With oven on, past pre-heat (broiler element is OK), measured voltage between each terminal and ground = 100 V-AC. Voltage between the 2 terminals however, measured 0 V. Can't find a breaker/fuse on wiring diagram for bake element, only found for 2 electrical outlets. Not sure what to do next, is it the relay? If it is the relay, can someone post a picture of it?

Thanks in advance.



I have the same issue. Have you figured it out yet???
denman  
#3 Posted : Wednesday, November 11, 2009 5:20:31 AM(UTC)
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denman

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Here are your parts
Replacement parts for WHIRLPOOL GJP84902 | AppliancePartsPros.com

I could not find any tech info on this unit.

Replaced with new element, resistance measured.
Usually if they have continuity they are OK. Though a 40 ohm reading would be a 1440 watt element which seems low.

With oven on, past pre-heat (broiler element is OK), measured voltage between each terminal and ground = 100 V-AC. Voltage between the 2 terminals however, measured 0 V.
Could have been just ghost voltage but 100 volts does seem high for a ghost.

Not sure what to do next, is it the relay? If it is the relay, can someone post a picture of it?
The bake relay is probably on the control board. The black boxes are the relays. You have to replace the board as the relays are not readilly available.

I would check the thermostat just in case but this is a long shot.
Here is a good link.
http://www.applianceaid.com/elecrange.html
Check out 7, 8 and 21

Hopefully someone with more info on this unit will jump in and help!!
THIS FORUM IS DEAD!!!!!!!
Monterro  
#4 Posted : Tuesday, December 22, 2009 12:50:12 PM(UTC)
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Monterro

Rank: Member

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Joined: 11/10/2009(UTC)
Posts: 2

Originally Posted by: denman Go to Quoted Post
Here are your parts
Replacement parts for WHIRLPOOL GJP84902 | AppliancePartsPros.com

I could not find any tech info on this unit.

Replaced with new element, resistance measured.
Usually if they have continuity they are OK. Though a 40 ohm reading would be a 1440 watt element which seems low.

With oven on, past pre-heat (broiler element is OK), measured voltage between each terminal and ground = 100 V-AC. Voltage between the 2 terminals however, measured 0 V.
Could have been just ghost voltage but 100 volts does seem high for a ghost.

Not sure what to do next, is it the relay? If it is the relay, can someone post a picture of it?
The bake relay is probably on the control board. The black boxes are the relays. You have to replace the board as the relays are not readilly available.

I would check the thermostat just in case but this is a long shot.
Here is a good link.
http://www.applianceaid.com/elecrange.html
Check out 7, 8 and 21

Hopefully someone with more info on this unit will jump in and help!!



I Have replaced the broken lower element also and still found an issue on the timer board. It looks like a short on the back of the P2-4 terminal. Which is the relay for the lower element( the SWITCH). New timer board is $300 plus on top of the cost of the lower element replacement. I would say the lower element finally gave and as a result it eventually fried the P2-4 terminal/relay connection. I wonder if this is gonna happen every 5 to 7 years of use????:confused:
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