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Replace GE oven door hinge

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Just ordered 2 new relacement hinges Part #WB10T10006, to replace one bent hinge (as well as the other one that

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Old 12-28-2012, 08:21 AM
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Default Replace GE oven door hinge
Model Number: JBP24BOB1AD   Brand: GE   Age: More than 10 years   

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Just ordered 2 new relacement hinges Part #WB10T10006, to replace one bent hinge (as well as the other one that is just as old). How do I remove the old, and then replace with the new ones. The door has been removed, but when I was at work, so I wasn't there at that time.


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  #2 (permalink)  
Old 06-06-2015, 04:54 PM
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I replaced one of four door hinges on my 17 year old GE TP56WW1WW double oven, by myself, in a little over an hour. All I needed was a phillips screwdriver and a ratchet and socket. This is how I did it:

0. Turn the oven off at the breaker panel.

1. When the door hinges are in the broil position (door just slightly open), grasp the door(s) firmly at each side and pull straight up. Place the door aside. Move the hinges to the closed position so that they will not snap shut on your fingers.
2. I have a double oven, but both upper and lower ovens have the same hinge types (WB14T10006). At ordering, when looking at the oven the left hinge is on the left, and the right hinge is on the right. They are metal stamped L or R.
3. Remove the lower and mid-trim pieces. The lower just lifts up off the posts. The mid-trim has two sheet metal screws above, and 3 hex head screws below. These are easy to see and access with the doors removed.
4. Remove the 4 wood screws per oven (2 each side) that secure the oven into the cabinet opening. For double ovens, it is 8 screws, 4 each side. Then grasp the oven at the base below the upper oven, and pull out slowly. In my case, both upper and lower ovens started to slide out together quite easily. You need to pull it out about 5-6 inches in order to access the sheet metal side panel that partially covers the hinges. I put a small step stool beneath the oven to make sure that if it tipped out, it would stop without falling completely forward.
5. Remove the 2 1/2 inch sheet metal panel at the side, behind the trim. It is secured by about 4 screws (8 screws for a double oven.) Upon removal, most of the hinge assembly(s) are revealed.
6. The hinge is secured by 2 hex head screws from the front. By removing these screws, the hinge assembly comes free. (Some oven models may include 2 more screws accessible only after the sheet metal panel is removed. If the hinge assembly does not float free after removing the front screws, check to see if these additional fasteners are there.)
7. If the hinge can be placed in the broil position, it can be easily manipulated from the backside of the trim to rotate it backwards out through the slot. If the roller or pin that secures the roller are broken, it will take some strength to try and hold the hinge open while forcing it back into and behind the slot.
8. Install the new hinge (make sure left is left, right is right), and proceed to re-install every thing in reverse order. But, it might be wise to place the door back on the hinges to make sure it works right, fulling closing and opening, and stopping at the broil position, before doing the rest of the re-install.
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Old 06-06-2015, 04:55 PM
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Default

I replaced one of four door hinges on my 17 year old GE TP56WW1WW double oven, by myself, in a little over an hour. All I needed was a phillips screwdriver and a ratchet and socket. This is how I did it:

0. Turn the oven off at the breaker panel.

1. When the door hinges are in the broil position (door just slightly open), grasp the door(s) firmly at each side and pull straight up. Place the door aside. Move the hinges to the closed position so that they will not snap shut on your fingers.
2. I have a double oven, but both upper and lower ovens have the same hinge types (WB14T10006). At ordering, when looking at the oven the left hinge is on the left, and the right hinge is on the right. They are metal stamped L or R.
3. Remove the lower and mid-trim pieces. The lower just lifts up off the posts. The mid-trim has two sheet metal screws above, and 3 hex head screws below. These are easy to see and access with the doors removed.
4. Remove the 4 wood screws per oven (2 each side) that secure the oven into the cabinet opening. For double ovens, it is 8 screws, 4 each side. Then grasp the oven at the base below the upper oven, and pull out slowly. In my case, both upper and lower ovens started to slide out together quite easily. You need to pull it out about 5-6 inches in order to access the sheet metal side panel that partially covers the hinges. I put a small step stool beneath the oven to make sure that if it tipped out, it would stop without falling completely forward.
5. Remove the 2 1/2 inch sheet metal panel at the side, behind the trim. It is secured by about 4 screws (8 screws for a double oven.) Upon removal, most of the hinge assembly(s) are revealed.
6. The hinge is secured by 2 hex head screws from the front. By removing these screws, the hinge assembly comes free. (Some oven models may include 2 more screws accessible only after the sheet metal panel is removed. If the hinge assembly does not float free after removing the front screws, check to see if these additional fasteners are there.)
7. If the hinge can be placed in the broil position, it can be easily manipulated from the backside of the trim to rotate it backwards out through the slot. If the roller or pin that secures the roller are broken, it will take some strength to try and hold the hinge open while forcing it back into and behind the slot.
8. Install the new hinge (make sure left is left, right is right), and proceed to re-install every thing in reverse order. But, it might be wise to place the door back on the hinges to make sure it works right, fulling closing and opening, and stopping at the broil position, before doing the rest of the re-install.
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Old 06-06-2015, 04:57 PM
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Join Date: Jun 2015
Posts: 3
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Default Replacing a WB14T10006 Door Hinge on a GE Oven

I replaced one of four door hinges on my 17 year old GE TP56WW1WW double oven, by myself, in a little over an hour. All I needed was a phillips screwdriver and a ratchet and socket. This is how I did it:

0. Turn the oven off at the breaker panel.

1. When the door hinges are in the broil position (door just slightly open), grasp the door(s) firmly at each side and pull straight up. Place the door aside. Move the hinges to the closed position so that they will not snap shut on your fingers.
2. I have a double oven, but both upper and lower ovens have the same hinge types (WB14T10006). At ordering, when looking at the oven the left hinge is on the left, and the right hinge is on the right. They are metal stamped L or R.
3. Remove the lower and mid-trim pieces. The lower just lifts up off the posts. The mid-trim has two sheet metal screws above, and 3 hex head screws below. These are easy to see and access with the doors removed.
4. Remove the 4 wood screws per oven (2 each side) that secure the oven into the cabinet opening. For double ovens, it is 8 screws, 4 each side. Then grasp the oven at the base below the upper oven, and pull out slowly. In my case, both upper and lower ovens started to slide out together quite easily. You need to pull it out about 5-6 inches in order to access the sheet metal side panel that partially covers the hinges. I put a small step stool beneath the oven to make sure that if it tipped out, it would stop without falling completely forward.
5. Remove the 2 1/2 inch sheet metal panel at the side, behind the trim. It is secured by about 4 screws (8 screws for a double oven.) Upon removal, most of the hinge assembly(s) are revealed.
6. The hinge is secured by 2 hex head screws from the front. By removing these screws, the hinge assembly comes free. (Some oven models may include 2 more screws accessible only after the sheet metal panel is removed. If the hinge assembly does not float free after removing the front screws, check to see if these additional fasteners are there.)
7. If the hinge can be placed in the broil position, it can be easily manipulated from the backside of the trim to rotate it backwards out through the slot. If the roller or pin that secures the roller are broken, it will take some strength to try and hold the hinge open while forcing it back into and behind the slot.
8. Install the new hinge (make sure left is left, right is right), and proceed to re-install every thing in reverse order. But, it might be wise to place the door back on the hinges to make sure it works right, fulling closing and opening, and stopping at the broil position, before doing the rest of the re-install.
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