Appliance Repair Forum - GE XL44 Gas Oven slow to heat

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GE XL44 Gas Oven slow to heat

Didn't see the exact problem posted.
My parent's oven is slow to heat. I replaced the ingitor, and it seems to work better (30 min. to reach 425), but this still seems slow and gas flame looks weak.

Other Symptoms:
Oven's flame looks small. Flame exits burner holes and goes horizonatally for an inch or less then turns up. Other ovens I've seen, the flame spreads out considerably.

Burner's holes look good, no evidence of clogging.

When set to broil, the flame size does not change. (oven doesn't have a separate burner for broiling).

gas valve voltage: ~3.2 VAC when oven is lit

gas valve resistance: ~ 1 ohm

A couple of years ago, a repairman had come and said that the gas valve was not opening all the way due to mouse damage and would cost 300 to fix. I didn't see any evidence of mouse damage. Could there be mouse damage somewhere causing this behavior?

Is it possible that the gas valve is stuck so it doesn't allow enough gas to come through, or is 30 minutes to reach 425 normal?

Hi.

The model number you provided is not coming up. Please check and re post.
The 30 min for preheat sounds a bit extreme.Locate the orifice at the top of the gas valve and turn it CCW 1/2 turn.
Also, is the top burners are OK? If not - you may have a bad pressure regulator.

Simon.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Simon / APP Team (Post 789027)

Hi, I re-posted as you suggested.

Top burners work fine. Size of flamein oven is not affected by top burners, even if all four are going atsame time on high.

The correct model number isJGSS05BEW2BB (forgot the "J")

Regarding the orifice, and turning it 1/2 turn CCW, do you mean thebrass nut that is attached to the valve outlet?

Hi.

Yes, the brass nut at the tip of the outlet

Part number: WB19K31

Try to adjust it and if no luck - replace the gas valve.

Here are the breakdown diagrams and Gas & Burner parts for GE JGSS05BEW2BB - AppliancePartsPros.com

Post the results.

Simon.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Simon / APP Team (Post 789027)

I tried turning the orifice as you had suggested, but I didn't see any change. But when you mentioned "orifice" my first thought was the orifice was clogged. I disconnected the valve from the burner and gas inlet and electrical connections. I unscrewed the gas orifice, which is basically a bullet shaped shell with a small hole at the tip. There was a nozzle underneath this brass shell. Everything looked clean.

I blew canned air into the nozzle and I put everything back together, but when I turned on the oven, gas did come out but it did not light. I thought that perhaps I had tightened the orifice too much. I loosened the orifice about a turn, and the gas ignited, but it looked weak, the same as before. I unscrewed the orifice about a half a turn, and the flame seemed a little bigger. I unscrewed it about 1 and a half more turns, and the flame was definitely stronger, but it didn't really spread out the way I've seen in other ovens.

I didn't want to unscrew it anymore, so I put it all back together, and it reached 425 degrees in less than ten minutes. I see this as a fix.

But what did I do? It seems that increasing the distance between the orifice and the internal nozzle helped, and that this distance is critical. Can it really be that a ~1/16" adjustment makes the difference between a well functioning oven and a poorly functioning oven?

But anyway thanks for the help.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Simon / APP Team (Post 789027)

Hi.

.Locate the orifice at the top of the gas valve and turn it CCW 1/2 turn.
Also, is the top burners are OK? If not - you may have a bad pressure regulator.

Simon.

See previous post. I started with your advice, and I was able to get it to work by turning the orifice about two turns CCW. My question is: why would this work? How does increasing the distance between the orifice and the inner nozzle give better gas burning?

Hi.

Inside the orifice is a pyramid look like needle. By turning the orifice you are controlling the gas flow.

Simon.