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Whirlpool Oven Error Code F3 E2 - Replaced Oven Tem Sensor and still getting error

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Oven Repair (including Ranges and Cooktops)

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I run my oven and it works fine for a few minutes and then all of the sudden error code

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Old 11-30-2012, 05:29 PM
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Default Whirlpool Oven Error Code F3 E2 - Replaced Oven Tem Sensor and still getting error
Model Number: GR465LXKS   Brand: Whirlpool   Age: More than 10 years   

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I run my oven and it works fine for a few minutes and then all of the sudden error code F3 E2 pops up on the display. I replaced the Oven Temperature Sensor and it did not make any difference. Any ideas?


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  #2 (permalink)  
Old 12-01-2012, 04:53 AM
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Here are your parts
Parts for Whirlpool GR465LXKS0 Range - AppliancePartsPros.com

See the attachment for the tech sheet

Could be the control board is giving a false error and needs replacing.
I am assuming that you have already removed power from the unit for a couple minutes to see if the control will reset itself.

But before doing this I would do the following.
Use a oven thermometer and check that the oven is not actually over heating.

Disconnect the plug at the control board and check the oven sensor at the this plug. You are looking for a higher than specified resistance re: could be a problem with the wiring going to the oven sensor.
Below is a link to info on the resistances, check out 7, 8, 20 and 21.
http://www.applianceaid.com/electric...air-topics.php

If it is OK there then check the connection on the board.
Check that the pins are clean.
Check for a cold solder joint at the pins for the oven sensor. Cold solder joints are often a dull gray and may have pin holes. Also if you wiggle the component you may see the leg on the solder side of the board move in the solder. A magnifying glass helps when doing this.

If all OK then I would replace the control board.

If you do not own a meter, I would suggest you purchase a one. You can get a decent digital multimeter for under $20.00. You do not need fancy though it is nice if the leads are a couple feet long.
If it saves ordering one unnecessary part it has paid for itself and you end up owning a useful tool.
Most places will not let you return electrical parts so if you order it, you own it.
A couple things to watch when measuring ohms and continuity
1. Always remove power from the machine otherwise you could blow your meter.
2. Always disconnect at least one side of any device you are checking. This eliminates the possibility of measuring an alternate/parallel circuit path.
3. When checking for closed contacts and continuity use the lowest scale (Usually 200 ohms). Then try higher scales. This scale is 0 to 200 ohms so if the device you are measuring is 300 ohms this scale would show an open circuit which it is not, you are just measuring outside the scale's dynamic range.
4. When you start always short the meter leads together. This will tell you that the meter is working and if there is any 0 offset.

There is a good STICKY at the start of this forum about it's use.
Attached Images
File Type: pdf GR465.pdf (252.8 KB, 16 views)
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