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GE Profile Lower electric oven doesn't get hot enough

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I have a GE Profile gas stove which has a lower electric oven where the warmer usually is. I've noticed

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Old 10-17-2012, 12:37 PM
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Question GE Profile Lower electric oven doesn't get hot enough
Model Number: JGB918   Brand: GE   Age: 5 - 10 years   

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I have a GE Profile gas stove which has a lower electric oven where the warmer usually is.

I've noticed that it is not getting as hot as usual and takes much longer to reach a preheated temperature of greater than 375 or higher.

I've never seen whether or not these elements have a red glow in the past however, they definitely do not glow now.

I've tested the bake and broil element and they are 18 and 35 ohms respectively.

I also test the terminals and each are at 120V.

I am unable to get to the oven sensor as there is a wire that goes into the side of the oven. I was unable to remove the side panel, but could peek inside to see that the wire (has a copper like color) goes all the way up the side panel and toward the knob to turn this oven on and off. I didn't get much else after this.

Is the bake element bad at 18 ohms?
Are there other things I can check to see why it's not heating well?
Should the elements glow red in this unit?

Any help would be much appreciated.

Thanks!


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Last edited by electricoven : 10-18-2012 at 05:01 AM. Reason: Corrected ohms reading for the broil element.
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Old 10-17-2012, 01:08 PM
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Hi.

Please post the complete model number.
The elements must glow bright red and voltage between two element's contacts should be 240VAC.
Check first if there is 240VAC at the outlet.
For any more help need the model number.

Simon.
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Old 10-17-2012, 01:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Simon / APP Team View Post
Hi.

Please post the complete model number.
The elements must glow bright red and voltage between two element's contacts should be 240VAC.
Check first if there is 240VAC at the outlet.
For any more help need the model number.

Simon.
JGB918BEK4BB is what is shown on the unit.

I'm not sure I understand the 240VAC you're referring to.

Here's how I tested:

Removed the lower burner and with my DMM plugged it into the terminals that the burner came out of which measured 120V.

I didn't take off the upper burner but was able to get my DMM probes to test that and it came back as 120V as well.

Thanks!
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Old 10-17-2012, 04:02 PM
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Hi.

Please forget about my previous post and lets start again.

Is it a gas only range or combination gas and electrical elements?
If it's a combo the breakdown diagram by the model number doesn't show that.
By saying "bake and broil elements" do you mean ignitors?

Simon.
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Old 10-17-2012, 05:34 PM
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This is a gas range with the main oven running on gas. There is an electric lower oven which is in place of the warming drawer. That lower oven is what I'm trying to troubleshoot.

There are two elements there, part 221 in the online manual. I took out the bake (lower) element which tested at 18 ohms and the connectors were tested at 120V.

The upper element was not removed but I was able to test it and it returned 35 ohms. The connectors for that tested at 120V.

Looking at the wiring diagram, it looks like that lower element should be 800 watts. (Not sure how this comes in to the equation.)

I wasn't able to get to the lower oven sensor per my first post.

Now I'm trying to figure out my next step. Is that bake element on its way out at 18 ohms? Or is it something else?

Also, when I turned on the oven for over 5 minutes, neither of the elements were glowing red. I can't say whether or not it did in the past when we used the lower oven successfully either.

Let me know if you have further questions.

Thanks!
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Old 10-18-2012, 04:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by electricoven View Post
This is a gas range with the main oven running on gas. There is an electric lower oven which is in place of the warming drawer. That lower oven is what I'm trying to troubleshoot.

There are two elements there, part 221 in the online manual. I took out the bake (lower) element which tested at 18 ohms and the connectors were tested at 120V.

The upper element was not removed but I was able to test it and it returned 35 ohms. The connectors for that tested at 120V.

Looking at the wiring diagram, it looks like that lower element should be 800 watts. (Not sure how this comes in to the equation.)

I wasn't able to get to the lower oven sensor per my first post.

Now I'm trying to figure out my next step. Is that bake element on its way out at 18 ohms? Or is it something else?

Also, when I turned on the oven for over 5 minutes, neither of the elements were glowing red. I can't say whether or not it did in the past when we used the lower oven successfully either.

Let me know if you have further questions.

Thanks!
Any thoughts on this Simon?

Thanks!
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Old 10-18-2012, 06:32 PM
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Hi.

If you are getting 120VAC across the elements they suppose to get hot.
Do you have 2 pilot lights for the drawer?Are they on?
If the lights are on then most likely you have a bad thermostat.

Simon.
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Last edited by Simon / APP Team : 10-18-2012 at 06:35 PM.
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Old 10-18-2012, 06:45 PM
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Thanks Simon.

This part is all electric to the best of my knowledge. It just has one knob that goes as high as 450 degrees. I didn't see any pilots when I was down there.

How can I access / test the thermostat?
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Old 10-19-2012, 10:36 AM
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Hi.

The "pilot lights" mean oven indicator lights. Should be two of them. The knob you are describing is the thermostat knob.
If the oven heats up but then quits - most likely the thermostat is bad Part number: WB20K10017

Part number: WB20K10017


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Old 10-19-2012, 04:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by electricoven View Post
Thanks Simon.

This part is all electric to the best of my knowledge. It just has one knob that goes as high as 450 degrees. I didn't see any pilots when I was down there.

How can I access / test the thermostat?
Can you show me a pic of the thermostat and where it is so I can test it?

What am I looking for during testing?
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