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Hello All from a new member. I would appreciate your thoughts on a wall oven where the center broil element

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Old 10-10-2012, 12:10 PM
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Default Center broil element won't heat
Model Number: KEBS107SBL00   Brand: Kitchen Aid   Age: 1 - 5 years   

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Hello All from a new member. I would appreciate your thoughts on a wall oven where the center broil element won't heat. It won't heat in center only mode, or full broil. Could it be the element? The connector? The electronics? The only troubleshooting I could think of was to turn the breaker on and off, in case the electronics got confused, but no luck. Thanks for your advice!


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  #2 (permalink)  
Old 10-11-2012, 02:44 AM
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Here are your parts
Parts for Whirlpool KEBS107SBL00 Wall Oven - AppliancePartsPros.com

See the attachment for the tech sheet

It could be ant of the causes you mention.
I would start by unplugging the unit and removing the element and then check it with a meter. should be around 30 ohms.

If you do not own a meter, I would suggest you purchase a one. You can get a decent digital multimeter for under $20.00. You do not need fancy though it is nice if the leads are a couple feet long.
If it saves ordering one unnecessary part it has paid for itself and you end up owning a useful tool.
Most places will not let you return electrical parts so if you order it, you own it.
A couple things to watch when measuring ohms and continuity
1. Always remove power from the machine otherwise you could blow your meter.
2. Always disconnect at least one side of any device you are checking. This eliminates the possibility of measuring an alternate/parallel circuit path.
3. When checking for closed contacts and continuity use the lowest scale (Usually 200 ohms). Then try higher scales. This scale is 0 to 200 ohms so if the device you are measuring is 300 ohms this scale would show an open circuit which it is not, you are just measuring outside the scale's dynamic range.
4. When you start always short the meter leads together. This will tell you that the meter is working and if there is any 0 offset.

There is a good STICKY at the start of this forum about it's use.
Attached Images
File Type: pdf KEBS107.pdf (463.5 KB, 1 views)
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Old 10-11-2012, 01:45 PM
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Thank you very much! I will follow your advice and see what turns up.
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Old 10-14-2012, 08:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by denman View Post
Here are your parts
Parts for Whirlpool KEBS107SBL00 Wall Oven - AppliancePartsPros.com

See the attachment for the tech sheet

It could be ant of the causes you mention.
I would start by unplugging the unit and removing the element and then check it with a meter. should be around 30 ohms.

If you do not own a meter, I would suggest you purchase a one. You can get a decent digital multimeter for under $20.00. You do not need fancy though it is nice if the leads are a couple feet long.
If it saves ordering one unnecessary part it has paid for itself and you end up owning a useful tool.
Most places will not let you return electrical parts so if you order it, you own it.
A couple things to watch when measuring ohms and continuity
1. Always remove power from the machine otherwise you could blow your meter.
2. Always disconnect at least one side of any device you are checking. This eliminates the possibility of measuring an alternate/parallel circuit path.
3. When checking for closed contacts and continuity use the lowest scale (Usually 200 ohms). Then try higher scales. This scale is 0 to 200 ohms so if the device you are measuring is 300 ohms this scale would show an open circuit which it is not, you are just measuring outside the scale's dynamic range.
4. When you start always short the meter leads together. This will tell you that the meter is working and if there is any 0 offset.

There is a good STICKY at the start of this forum about it's use.
Hello Denman,
Thank you for your help. Looks like most of the posts on this forum are professionals talking to professionals or experienced DIYers. This was my first attempt at a major appliance repair, but I am not averse to trying basic repair routines, so I appreciate your time to help a rookie.

The good element has a steady 37.6ish ohms; while the non performing element started around 12 and kept rising slowly, so a new element looks in order before I call Sears. Also, near one part of the element is a small spray of carbon (~ 2 in x 2 in) on the element bracket. Is this the point of failure?

Thanks again!
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Old 10-14-2012, 02:35 PM
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Also, near one part of the element is a small spray of carbon (~ 2 in x 2 in) on the element bracket. Is this the point of failure?
Yes that is what it sounds like.
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