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-   -   Light stays on, no heat - Control vs Selector Switch or Burner Element (http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/501394-light-stays-no-heat-control-vs-selector-switch-burner-element.html)

emmdee 09-28-2012 07:04 AM

Light stays on, no heat - Control vs Selector Switch or Burner Element
 
I have a General Electric JP989SK1SS Electric Cooktop. Three of the four burners work fine. The lower right burner does not heat. It's red "hot" indicator light stays on all the time and the "on" indicator light does NOT turn on when I turn it's knob. How do I determine if it's a defective control switch, the selector switch or the burner element?
Thank you for your help.

Simon / APP Team 09-28-2012 04:01 PM

Hi.

You need to check the infinite switch output.
Using the multimeter check if there is 240VAC between H1 and H2 of the infinite switch when it's on.
Be careful with "hot" appliance.
If there is no 240VAC - replace the switch

Part number: WB24T10063

Part number: WB24T10063


If you'll have the proper voltage - replace the element

Part number: WB30T10095

Part number: WB30T10095


Here are the breakdown diagrams and Cooktop replacement parts for General Electric JP989SK1SS Electric range | AppliancePartsPros.com

Post the results.

Simon.

emmdee 10-03-2012 01:05 PM

GE Profile Cooktop - Control Switch
 
JP989SK1SS - GE Profile 30inch downdraft glass cooktop

Thanks for your help. I replaced the control switch, and the cooktop works like new!

I was uncomfortable testing the "live" appliance to determine if it was a switch or burner problem, so I took my chances and ordered a new control switch. Looking back, I think the fact that my symptoms were the "hot light" on and "on light" not on indicated that it was a switch problem. (versus "on light" on and "hot light" not on if it was the burner)

Here are a few things I learned -
I believe my switch failed because it got wet. There was a moisture stain on the switch box itself. I will be more careful when cleaning now, not to get any liquid or moisture near the knobs.

Also, you do NOT have to remove the glass cooktop to access the control assembly to replace the switch/es. I really did not want to remove the glass, so I first tried removing the wiring access cover box. I got lucky and inside the box was a "Technical Data Sheet" that had instructions on how to access the controls without removing the glass top.

Note - all screws are 1/4 inch. Having a crescent with an extender will be helpful to reach the screws in the back.
** First - Turn off main power to cooktop.
1. Remove all five control knobs from the top. I had trouble with the blower knob, but all knobs have to be removed in order to lower the control assembly.
2. Underneath, remove the wiring access cover box (four screws).
3. Underneath, remove six screws holding the component plate to the cooktop.
4. Unplug the four connectors that go to the cooktop (two white, two red). These are the "lights" that show up on the glass. Removing them will allow you to lower the control assembly. You have to pinch in the sides and pull them out.
5. Lower the control assembly.
6. Remove the wire connections to the existing switch. First, I took a picture with my phone and used a sharpie to label everything to make sure I could hook it all back up correctly.
6. Unscrew the two screws (actually, these are phillips) that hold the control switch in place.
7. Replace the switch, reconnect the wires and reassemble.

Thanks again for your help and part recommendation.
Michelle

Simon / APP Team 10-03-2012 03:43 PM

Hi.

I'm glad you fixed the cooktop and thank you for shearing with us the experience.

Simon.


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