[doomeddanby]

(Very lengthy read)
This is a domestic coil (electric) no frills basic Apartment-sized unit like those we have all been exposed to since the late 1950's. (a Four coil top, 2000 Broiler element, 1900 Bake element). no timer, or oven viewing light . . . "only" an Oven indicator, and a separate top burner light.

One month old, and replacing a GE 24 year-old unit (identical in all ways).
230VAC 40 amp L1/L2 (tested to 35 amp leg load, holding voltage), new construction installation.

Single Oven control knob, 0-600 degree range, plus Broil (in the far right detent position), the Broiler works perfectly.

This "is not" an issue about calibration ! (indicated dial set point-to-actual-oven-temperature) so, please ! do not go there), "indicated temperature" is 20 degrees different from actual at all temperature settings, (and constant, at 200 through 600 degrees).
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On attempting my 30 year-old established baking tasks of 45 minutes, I had to accept inferior results after more than 2 full hours baking time. (enter the Engineer).

With a Fluke recorder, and thermocouple (freshly ice set), 0 (70 ambient)-350 "preheat times are 8-12 minutes (small box)... And "that" ends what is good.
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The next round went like this:
Achieved 350F…held it for 15 seconds and then started dropping temperature…. Oven Indicator light always ON.

Oven temperature dropped to 250F over 8:00 elapsed minutes… held steady for 10 seconds, and then began rising in temperature. Oven Indicator light always ON. Broiler element not active.

3 minutes 55 seconds (250F to 350F), Broiler element not active, Oven Indicator light always ON, held at 350F for 15 or so seconds and began dropping again.

Oven temperature dropped to 250F over 8:28 elapsed minutes … held there for a moment, and then, began rising in temperature again. Indicator light always ON, Top element not active.

3 minutes 50 seconds (250F to 350F) Broiler element not active, Oven Indicator light always ON, held at 350F for 10 seconds and began dropping again.

I ran six test cycles . . . (all were data mimics of these earlier events), so, I called the Manufacturer, they have no technical support, so, they refer everything to their Professional Service/Warranty field people. Whom I contacted, and they came out to service the unit at my home.

The Veteran Serviceman advised me that "all ovens swing in temperature, you don't just set it at 350 and expect it to stay there !" I responded with "a 100 degree swing ? "oh yes, 100 degrees on either side of your "set point".

The actual argument drew into why the Oven Indicator Light does not go off on attaining set point.. I learned "these are Power on Indicators only, Oven lights don't go out when they reach temperature" and later " the Broiler element has absolutely nothing to do with baking, that's why they are called 'Broiler' elements !" But, he said "the oven "set point" was off from what was actually going on inside, so, he would order another Oven Control Assembly".
He furthered the issue by saying "the Owners Manual is wrong, Ovens never worked that way, and this one wont either"

I was foaming at the mouth, the old GE unit, and my daughters Westinghouse ... and the Owners Manual for this unit ALL show the schematic, and explain the operation sequence clearly, in my old RobertShaw/Honeywell Controls days we held temps within 15-20 degrees of set point, and Oven indicator lights (and Broiler elements on 115) cycled as required.

Is this no longer 21st Century valid ? what should one expect from their Oven Control for temperature maintenance around a given set-point ? I doubt this unit is American made, and the Factory ? in Ohio may just be a sales outlet/importer, so, I am hoping to proceed on my own.