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problem with Amana stove oven

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On Monday the wife was using the oven and it made a loud popping noise from inside. I took the

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Old 08-19-2012, 07:05 AM
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Default problem with Amana stove oven
Model Number: AER5735QAW   Brand: Amana   Age: 5 - 10 years   

Appliance Parts from AppliancePartPros.com


On Monday the wife was using the oven and it made a loud popping noise from inside. I took the cover off of the bottom of the inside of the oven compartment and noticed that the baking element was burned out. So I ordered a new oven element and installed it this morning. Upon plugging the stove back in, both the baking element and the broil element does not work, but all of the burners on the top work and the board on the top to set the oven temp etc. all works. So obviously my problem now is more then just the bad element. What else could be wrong?


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  #2 (permalink)  
Old 08-19-2012, 08:22 AM
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Here are your parts includes a wiring diagram.
Replacement parts for Amana AER5735QAW RANGE- S/C F/S ELE | AppliancePartsPros.com

I could not find a better copy of the wiring on the net but if you rotate it you will see a hi-limit switch on the red line close to the terminal block.I believe that this will kill power to both oven elements.

It would be Item 18 in Section 1 of the parts.
Unplug the stove and check the hi-limit, it should be 0 ohms.
Be sure to disconnect one side of it as this prevents you from reading an alternate/parallel circuit path.

If it is OK then check the wiring to the elements.
If the wiring is OK then when the element blew it probably also blew the control board.
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Old 08-19-2012, 09:08 AM
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well, there is a switch that is above the oven light. I tested it with my multimeter and with the setting on 200K, the reading was 0.0, so I would think that is good. I did set the oven to on again, and tested voltage coming in. 131 volts on each leg, 262 across. With the oven on, I tested both of the heating elements because with the oven set to 350 degrees, you can hear the control board clicking on and off but there is nothing getting to either of the heating elements. So you say the control board is shot? Is there any way to test this, or should I just order a new one and replace it?
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Old 08-19-2012, 03:26 PM
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So you say the control board is shot? Is there any way to test this, or should I just order a new one and replace it?
You basically have tested it. You know that the unit is getting 240 volts and that the wiring to the elements etc. is OK and that the hi-limit thermostat is OK so all that is left is the control board.

I am assuming that the part you checked was the following
Part number: AP4097237

Part number: AP4097237
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Old 08-19-2012, 07:27 PM
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Default I have no limit switch.

What I previously thought was the hi limit switch I looked at again and then also took the top cooktop part off to verify what it was and it is the light switch for the oven. So looking all over this oven and looking at the wiring diagram that was provided on the back of the stove, there is no limit switch on this unit. According to the wiring diagram it should be on one of the red wires coming from the one red hot side and I traced every wire, both red and black and they go from the power block all the way up to the rest of the unit and have no limit switches connected anywhere.

So if I have no limit switch, there isn't one on the stove to go bad so does that mean it has to be the control board. Just looking to verify things before I order more parts.
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Old 08-20-2012, 02:16 AM
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So if I have no limit switch, there isn't one on the stove to go bad so does that mean it has to be the control board.
Yes
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