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Jenn-air oven/broiler no longer working - have details!

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Have a Jenn-air SVD8310S, stovetop is gas and the oven is electric. Last week the oven/broiler stopped working and the

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Old 08-07-2012, 05:41 PM
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Default Jenn-air oven/broiler no longer working - have details!
Model Number: SVD8310S   Brand: Jenn-Air   Age: More than 10 years   

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Have a Jenn-air SVD8310S, stovetop is gas and the oven is electric. Last week the oven/broiler stopped working and the convection fan no longer turns on. The knobs "click" when putting it on bake, but the bake light does not turn on, nor does the clean light.

I tested the outlet with a multimeter which was fine, tested for continuity on both the bottom and top heating elements and they both checked out. Also tested for continuity on the high limit thermostat which also checked out. Here are some pictures of other voltages checked.
Back panel taken off, voltages from the outlet all look great.



This is the panel underneath the bake/clean/convect/etc knob. The yellow, orange, and purple wires go to the bake/broil elements and all wires (except brown which is the lock which was not engaged) read 120v when one of the multimeter nodes is grounded. However, if I try to test yellow and orange in the same manner as testing the outlet I get 0 volts??? Why is this? Shouldn't it be 240? Or should I be getting 240 out of each wire? Also, the Blue wire only puts out 97 volts, but I believe that is the clean function.


Another shot of the back with the heating elements circled. Again, each individual wire reads 120v.


Anyone know what could be wrong? I'm seriously at a loss as to where to go from here. Should I be getting 240v on the heating elements?


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Old 08-08-2012, 04:15 AM
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Here are your parts
Replacement parts for Jenn-Air SVD8310S RANGE-S/C S/I GAS & ELEC DUEL FUEL | AppliancePartsPros.com

Here is a service manual
Download SVD48600.pdf
Wiring diagram is page 4-13 and 4-14.

The yellow, orange, and purple wires go to the bake/broil elements and all wires (except brown which is the lock which was not engaged) read 120v when one of the multimeter nodes is grounded. However, if I try to test yellow and orange in the same manner as testing the outlet I get 0 volts???
Why is this?

The oven thermostat must be turned on for you to see voltage here.

Shouldn't it be 240? Or should I be getting 240 out of each wire?
Using Neutral can be confusing when working on a 240 volt circuit as you cannot tell what side of the line you are actually reading. Also you will never get 240 when using Neutral as a reference.

I am not sure how you were reading the Yellow and Orange which look like they are the 2 sides of the bake element.
If you were using Neutral then if the thermostat is on you should see 120 on both sides re: BA to L2 thermostat contacts closed so L2 is connected to them.
If you where measuring Yellow to Orange then you probably would not see any voltage because if you did the element would heat up as long as it was OK. The element is not connected to Neutral and runs off of L1 to L2 voltage.

As a for instance lets say that the BA to L2 thermostat contacts are OK and you use Neutral for one meter lead connection (reference).
You will see 120 volts at the Yellow on the bake element. You will also see it at the Orange on the bake element since the element is not dropping any voltage as there is no circuit path. So it is the same voltage and if you measure across the element (Yellow to Orange) you see 0 volts.

Now lets assume that the timer relays are OK and you are getting L1 voltage at C (in triangle) BL circuit point. If you do the same measurement using Neutral you will see 120 volts at both Orange and Yellow but here is the kicker.
You are seeing L2 voltage on the Yellow and L1 voltage on the Orange so if you measure Orange to Yellow you will see 240 (element will get hot).

I hope I explained the above OK and did not just confuse you.

FYI: Just in case you do not know.
Your house supply is actually two 120 volt supplies with a common Neutral.
The two supplies are 180 degrees out of phase so when one is at positive 120 volts, the other is at negative 120 volts and that is how you get the 240 volts required to run the elements.

That your clean light does not come on in any mode seems to indicate that you are not getting voltage (L1) at BL.

Section 3 shows what looks like two hi-limit thermostats (Items 3 and 7)
They say 3 is a high limit but do not list 7. I could not find a second one in the wiring diagram so am not sure what it is doing. Usually it is controlling the blower motor but I could not confirm this perhaps I am just looking in the wrong area.
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