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GE Error Code F2

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I am new to this site. The oven reads error code F2. My wife bought an oven thermometer and it

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Old 05-20-2012, 04:53 PM
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Default GE Error Code F2
Model Number: JSP42WOK1WW   Brand: GE   Age: 5 - 10 years   

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I am new to this site. The oven reads error code F2. My wife bought an oven thermometer and it is taking over 20 minutes to get within 50 degrees of the set temperature, even though it "thinks" it's there. Also, the fan runs long after the oven is turned off. I don't want to drop ~$150 on a new control board (ERC?) if it could be something else. Thank you in advance for your assistance / shared expertise.


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  #2 (permalink)  
Old 05-21-2012, 03:08 AM
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I could not find any info on the given model number.
Are you sure it has an "O" in it.
The following parts breakdown is for a JSP41WK1WW.
Replacement parts for General Electric JSP42WK1WW Electric range | AppliancePartsPros.com

I look up F2 and on many GE units it is an over temperature fault.
I would stat by checking the oven sensor (Item 253 in Section 1).
Here is a good site with info on it, check out 7, 8, 20 and 21.
http://www.applianceaid.com/elecrange.html

A higher resistance is interpreted as a higher temperature so if the sensor reads OK with a meter also check that the connectors at the board are clean and that the solder connections on the back of the control board are good and that the circuit tracks going to the sensor connection on the board are OK (no cracks). A magnifying glass can help when checking the tracks. You can also put one meter lead on a connector and then trace the circuit board track and check a point further down the circuit to see if it reads 0 ohms.

Bad solder joints are often a duller gray and/or have pin holes. Also gently wiggle the connector while watching the back side of the board to see if the connector leg is moving in the solder.

If you do not own a meter, I would suggest you purchase a one. You can get a decent digital multimeter for under $20.00. You do not need fancy though it is nice if the leads are a couple feet long.
If it saves ordering one unnecessary part it has paid for itself and you end up owning a useful tool.
Most places will not let you return electrical parts so if you order it, you own it.
A couple things to watch when measuring ohms and continuity
1. Always remove power from the machine otherwise you could blow your meter.
2. Always disconnect at least one side of any device you are checking. This eliminates the possibility of measuring an alternate/parallel circuit path.
3. When checking for closed contacts and continuity use the lowest scale (Usually 200 ohms). Then try higher scales. This scale is 0 to 200 ohms so if the device you are measuring is 300 ohms this scale would show an open circuit which it is not, you are just measuring outside the scale's dynamic range.
4. When you start always short the meter leads together. This will tell you that the meter is working and if there is any 0 offset.

There is a good STICKY at the start of this forum about it's use.
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Old 06-03-2012, 09:38 AM
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Default Not the sensor

Thank you for the tip - is there any other parts that can be checked easily (that you think may cause the F2 code)?
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Old 06-04-2012, 04:28 AM
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The only part that comes to mind is the temperature sensor or it's connector.
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