[DonD]

I think I have diagnosed my problem and found the correct replacement part but would like confirmation. The grill on my Thermador PRDS364GL range doesn't light. See here for parts (http://www.appliancepartspros.com/partsearch/model.aspx?model_id=232615)

I checked the circuit and have measured 120 VAC going into the valve (http://www.appliancepartspros.com/pa...e l_id=232615) item 87, Part Number: AP2832925 made by BOSCH, but 0 volts coming out. I assume this is not normal and indicates that I need to replace it, right? Or is there something else I am not understanding.

Also, the valve has been replaced once already several years ago. The part that is in there now is a NC-4125-5 Eaton Bi-Metal Gas Valve but it clearly marked "do not apply 120 VAC" and is marked 3.03/3.3 VAC. I am measuring 120 VAC going into the valve so is it safe to assume that the repair guy (under warranty) replaced the valve with the wrong part. It's lasted for years but I assume that applying 120 VAC to this probably burnt it out, right?

I need a little reassurance that replacing this will correct the problem before spending $100+ on it. I also just replaced the igniter.

Help from a APP technician would be appreciated ASAP as I'd like to order this part today.

Finally, do you recommend and sell a good sealant for the gas line since I need to break the gas line to replace the valve?

Thanks,

Don

[Gene]

Don,

Have you checked for 120 VAC to the igniter while the control calls for heat?

The gas safety valve has to be checked for continuity only.

Gene.

[DonD]

Hi Gene - the valve is an open circuit. I see about 1.6 VAC across the ignitor when I start the grill. I hope this means that the valve is bad since I already ordered one.

Does the 3.3 V valve in there now make any sense to you?

Thanks for the reply,

Don

[Gene]

Hi Don,

Sorry for the delay. If the gas valve is open then you are on the right way. Keep us posted.

Gene.

[DonD]

The valve replacement was successful but I don't understand one thing. The replacement valve was exactly same as the bad one I removed. Ordinarily that would be a good thing but now I go back to my original question:

Why is the valve clearly marked "do not apply 120 VAC" and is marked 3.03/3.3 VAC? The input wire is 120 VAC. What am I missing?

I hope you have some time for lots of questions. One of the XLO burners just quit and the ovens ability to come up to temperature has been inconsistant for a while...

I'll post those question in other respective threads.

[Gene]

The valve is connected in series with the igniter and because of the igniter resistance the voltage in the circuit is much less than 120 VAC.

I'm glad you were able to fix it.

Gene.