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Kenmore: New control leaves 'extra" wire loose

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Kenmore 27" Electric Self-Clean, Double Wall Overn w/ERC Control and Motorized Door Lock - control quit working. Ordered two parts

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Old 01-16-2008, 07:27 PM
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Default Kenmore: New control leaves 'extra" wire loose
Model Number: 911. 48485   Brand: Kenmore   Age: 5 - 10 years   

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Kenmore 27" Electric Self-Clean, Double Wall Overn w/ERC Control and Motorized Door Lock - control quit working. Ordered two parts recommended here: AP3155969 (Manufacturer's Number: WB27T10282 made by GEH) and AP3425185 (Manufacturer's Number: WB36T10483 made by GEH) to replace.

Control looks much like the part it replaces, but with one major exception. The unit it replaces has a black wire (Labeled B-12 on original panel wiring schematic) which connects to a tab marked C and E4. There is no such tab identified as such on the new control.

I have matched up all other controls with the wiring harness, but have that one spare with no place to put it.

The diagram which accompanied the parts is poorly reproduced, and too small and fuzzy to read without a magnifying glass. I carefully read it under magnification to try to match connectors and then reproduced the drawing in a larger, color-coded version for my guidance.

When I started install however, I quickly ran into the problem of the "extra" wire and no tab on which to place it.

Please advise what I should do.

ADDED INFO:

Should have mentioned that there is no Convection component or wiring on this model.

Wound up with no Black L I wire for the BROIL 1 terminal. Is there a possibility that the "extra wire" connected to C E4 on the original panel can be used there?

My wiring diagram for new panel attached, with note of location of the missing C E4 tab to which the "extra" B - 12 terminal was attached.

http://mcphersonassociates.net/3858B...ol_diagram.gif


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Last edited by zambojmc : 01-16-2008 at 10:47 PM. Reason: Additional Information and diagram
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  #2 (permalink)  
Old 01-17-2008, 02:05 PM
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I believe the black wire you are talking about (labeled B-12) and originally connected to the "C" terminal on the old control board is in L1 circuit and should be connected to either COM0 or COM1 terminals on the new control board.

It suppose to be 4 black wires, providing L1 power.

They should be connected to: the COM terminal on the BROIL1 relay, the COM terminal on the BROIL2 relay, the COM0 terminal on the right side and the COM1 terminal at the same place.

Check all these wires for continuity across each other.

Gene.
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Old 01-17-2008, 03:11 PM
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Thumbs up Thanks ...

I was hoping that would be the case, and greatly appreciate your help.

At the cost of those control boards, you sure don't want to fry one.

My wife thanks you, also! The best of luck to you and yours.

zambojmc
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Old 01-05-2010, 08:40 PM
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Default I had the same problem with the instructions...

I had the same problem with the instructions thanks for the confirmation of where to connect the remaining wire. I do have a follow up question, after i used to oven 3 times I'm now getting the F0 error again. I'm thinking of replacing the keypad this time. Does this sound like the next thing I should do?. If so does the keypad assembly come with the control unit? I can still return the control unit if it does and just get the keypad assembly in return. For some background information i did the recommended test to check if the keypad was the problem or the ERC and the ERC came out as the fault. I got and installed the replacement control panel part# WB27T10282. Thanks for any help.
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Old 01-08-2010, 01:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lkljunky View Post
...i did the recommended test to check if the keypad was the problem or the ERC and the ERC came out as the fault...
Before replacing the key pad I would do this test again because possible the new ERC is defective.

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