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Panel will set the oven on and temp, hit start and ignihters light up but burners will not come on. top burners light off ok. I have set the flipable swt (what does it do?) on regulator both ways, no help. Also out of the blu unit started beeping with F-10 code after had been plugged in about 3 hrs, had to unplug it to get it off. Hasnt reocured since (about 7 hrs pluged in).Adl info, Unit had been converted to Propane, I converted it back, but as far as I know only the top burner orfices are changed.
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Cheathco, When you converted back to Nat gas, did you flip the cap on the regulator, and did you raise the bake and broil orifice(s) (turn counterclockwise) to reset to Nat. gas. Since your igniters come on and glow, we can presume you have 120 VAC to the igniters, but, When they glow they have to produce 3.2 to 3.6 amps or 3.2 to 3.6 VAC back to the gas valve in order to open the bi metal switch in the valve. You'll need a multi meter or clamp on ammeter to check. Here's some meter usage information : http://forum.appliancepartspros...continuity-ohmmeter.htmlGood Luck and Thanks,
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Thanks for the info, No I didnt raise the orfices, will do that. I have changed the flip swt n the regulator a while back but then changed it again as didnt know which way it should go, on one setting the little rod goes deeper and on the other more of the little rod is showing, can you tell me which way is for nat gas?
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Originally Posted by: cheathco  Thanks for the info, No I didnt raise the orfices, will do that. I have changed the flip swt n the regulator a while back but then changed it again as didnt know which way it should go, on one setting the little rod goes deeper and on the other more of the little rod is showing, can you tell me which way is for nat gas? Cheathco, You're working the wrong component, the "flip" lever controls the gas to the oven burner,it needs to be in the down position. The "Plastic cap" on the top of the regulator Part number: AP2125390
is where you need to work, remove the cap, unscrew the hex head an turn it over so the NAT is facing up, screw it back in and install the plastic cap, that will set the regulator for NAT gas.
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Ok Thanks Joe. I had the flip sw right, its down, Lever flat against side. I unscrwed the hex head (it was only finger tight) and it was in pos for nat already, N facing out (up), appearanly wasnt changed in conversion. I dont understand all I know about the hex thing, looks like it would let gas into the side with plastic cover and no place else to go, pluss plastic cover seems would not hold gas? I have not measured voltage as very dif to get to, however both upper and lower ignighters get while hot. since both fail to turn on the gas could I have a bad valve set, ya think?
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Originally Posted by: cheathco Ok Thanks Joe. I had the flip sw right, its down, Lever flat against side. I unscrwed the hex head (it was only finger tight) and it was in pos for nat already, N facing out (up), appearanly wasnt changed in conversion. I dont understand all I know about the hex thing, looks like it would let gas into the side with plastic cover and no place else to go, pluss plastic cover seems would not hold gas? I have not measured voltage as very dif to get to, however both upper and lower ignighters get while hot. since both fail to turn on the gas could I have a bad valve set, ya think? Cheathco, You're on top of it, The Plastic cap is just a cover, it won't hold pressure, make sure you tighten "hex thing" carefully , it has to be more than finger tight. Without a voltage or amp draw reading, If both igniters are glowing "white" hot in less than 60 seconds, then, you can pretty much figure the valve bimetal switch is faulty or you have lost the circuit on one of the wires, and will need the oven safety valve. Thanks and Good Luck
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Ok Joe, thats my thinking. to be sure, as it is a pricy part, I want to try to check igniter output with my ohm meter. Can I disconect the igniter feed wires where they go into the side of unit, and hook to the 2 leads to check for the 3.5+ volts while igniter is heating up?
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Cheathco, The wires you're describing would be the 120 VAC from the control, we know you have that circuit working, the igniters glow.
The best and most accurate test, is at the safety valve terminals itself(with the wires attached) That way you can determine the proper voltage and neutral circuit, to chassis ground and confirm the condition of the circuit and bimetal switch in one easy quick step.
:) :) :)
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Ok Joe, I didnt make myself clear. The leads from the ingiter go into a conn on the left side of the unit across from the valve. Then a wt wire comes back out and jumpers to bothe upper and lower burner valves and a blu goes to the upper, and a yel goes to the lower burner valve. If I understand correctly, I can put the probes on the two leads at the valve, (upper and lower) while igniters are heating and see the voltage, yes? ( I chased electrons for 22 years with honeywell computer control division:-) Im 72, but still like to learn new things,
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Uh oh, I conn the meter across the leads on the bake(lower) valve, and now igniter wont start, it times out. Took meter leads off, and same thing. I tried the upper and it still lights the igniter.(no meter conn). I tried this first on my little gas fireplace valve which is fed by a thermopile, and it showed correct output of about 800 MV A/C, so assumed would be able to do same at the oven valve. Looking at the wiring diagram, dont see how I could have hurt anything, I was very carefull not to short anything. Well Joe, Looks like ole charlie is loosing this fight:-)
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