|
|||
| Register | FAQ's | New Posts | Today's Posts | Extras |
| » Oven will not heat |
|
|
By reading any content on this site you agree to AppliancePartsPros.com, Inc. disclaimer and Terms of Use. |
|
|
LinkBack | Thread Tools | Search this Thread | Display Modes |
|
See inside of your appliance - diagrams and part photos for virtually every model. powered by AppliancePartsPros.com |
|
||||
|
Most likely the hi temperature cut out is "off". It is resettable and located on the back of the oven.
Gene.
__________________
Appliance Repair Expert in Orange County, California. Order Appliance Parts with 365-Day Hassle Free Return Policy - AppliancePartsPros.com |
|
|||
|
I have removed the oven from the wall. I cannot locate a hi temperature cut out to reset. The only wires/items on the back of the oven are the wiring and connection points to the heat elements, the interior oven lights and the interior oven thermostats.
I did check the voltage coming to the elements and found the red wire for the broiler element and the black wire for the bake element both of which are connected tot he left side of the selector switch do produce 120 volts. Whereas the Blue wire that jumps to the bake and broil element that is connectected to the right side of the selector switch only produces about 60 volts. My understanding is that both leads should produce 120 volts. I also noticed that when the selector switch is on Bake, both the red lead to the broil element and the black lead to the bake element produce 120 volts. Whereas when the selector switch is on broil the red wire connected to the broil element produces 120 volts and the black wire connecting to the bake element produces 14-15 volts. I assume this is normal in that when baking, the broil element may come on for a short period of time in order to quickly pre heat the oven to the disired bake temperature. Please Advise. Thanks Last edited by double door thermador : 01-20-2008 at 10:12 AM. |
|
|||
|
take both leads off of the bake element... ( MAKE SURE YOU DO NOT ALLOW EITHER OF THEM TO TOUCH CHASSIS !!!) CHECK each wire to ground to see which is HOT ( or has 120vac .. ) then turn power off and the wire that is not HOT ( doesn't have 120vac ) follow back to point of origin ( could be to a non-resettable safety t-stat, but could also be to the push button switch , which by the way, i think is NLA ) but it could also be to the HOT WIRE RELAY ....
__________________
regards jim |
|
|||
|
Kawfeeman,
I have done as suggested. The hot wire, or the wire that does not produce 120 volts, rather 48-60 volts, connects directly to the selector switch at the front of the oven. (along with about 30 other wires) part number 14-19-19-198. I do not see a reset button or switch on that part. |
|
See inside of your appliance - diagrams and part photos for virtually every model. powered by AppliancePartsPros.com |
| Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
| Display Modes | |
|
|
|
|
||||
| Thread | Thread Starter | Forum | Replies | Last Post |
| Wall oven will not heat/re-heat properly | dottavio | Oven Repair (including Ranges and Cooktops) | 0 | 01-07-2010 09:47 AM |
| Oven/clock Control Panel is no longer lit but oven does heat. | jthomas@abrakadoodle.com | Oven Repair (including Ranges and Cooktops) | 1 | 12-05-2009 04:07 PM |
| Oven broiler and burners work - oven will not heat | fatbuford | Oven Repair (including Ranges and Cooktops) | 0 | 11-27-2009 05:50 AM |
| Caloric double oven/bottom oven doesn't heat | kj0505 | Oven Repair (including Ranges and Cooktops) | 1 | 12-10-2008 09:14 AM |
| Bosch 27" Dbl oven Powering on but no heat either oven | badace | Oven Repair (including Ranges and Cooktops) | 0 | 12-02-2007 09:56 AM |