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Model Number: JGP933BEKBB Brand: GE Age: Less than 1 year
I have a GE Profile Cooktop that started continuously sparking/clicking every 1 second. All four burners are sparking when the knobs are in any position (on/off). The only way to stop the clicking is to turn off the electricity to the stove top.
I've been reading on these forums and it seems to me like either a burner switch issue or spark module issue, but I'm having troubles determining which part is causing the sparking. Please help... Will switching out the harness switch (part number WB18T10339) for one of the burners fix the problem or will I have to replace the spark module (part number WB13T10046)? Ads By Google Related Models |
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LINK > Burner Ignition Switches and Harness Asm. JMO Dan O. www.Appliance411.com The Appliance Information Site =D~~~~~~ |
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I can't say what will stop clicking in every case, I can only say what worked for me. This note applies to those cooktops where the sparking is supposed to continue until a burner ignites. It does not apply to those where the sparking is only suppose to occur when the gas value is in the "ignite" position.
1. If clicking does not stop when the gas is turned off, then contact is being maintained by one of the switches attached to each of the gas valves. The reason could be as simple as the switch being wet (use hair dryer to dry out) or a defective switch (replace). Possibly use an "Ohm Meter" to find the contact that is not opening when the gas is shut off. 2. If the clicking stops when the gas is turned off, but the sparking continues after one or more of the burners have ignited, there are at least two possible causes. (a) The gap between the spark electrode and the cover plate is not being filled with hot ionized gas. Most often this is because the top cover is not correctly positioned on the burner. It may also result from a pot on the burner defecting the flame away from the ignitor; if so, reposition the pot. (b) Their is a mismatch between the conduction through the ionized gas and the conduction needed to preclude further sparking. This may be a result of a dirty or dull electrode, or a defective ignitor controller. In one stove that I owned, the manufacturer installed (as warranty repair) three "new" ignitor controllers before we discovered that it was a mismatch problem. When an older version of the controller was installed to mate with the older version ignitors, the sparking stopped on ignition. I'll add that as an apartment manager, I've had to deal with four cook-tops with these problems. Many of the internal parts are the same even though the cook tops may bear the names of different manufacturers. Last edited by windsurferLA : 07-13-2010 at 09:13 PM. Reason: add text |
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Did you ever figure out how to stop the ignitors from clicking?? My cooktop does the same thing. Thanks, KMK
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Without more detailed information, it is difficult to say with certainty the cause of your problem. However, I expect switches on each of the four control knobs are wired as a logical OR function, and that the closing of any one of the four switches will activate the ignitor circuit. Before one can ascertain whether or not the ignitor module is defective, you need to determine why it continues to run when all four switches are turned OFF. I'd suggest disconnecting the switches until you find the switch that is sending power to the ignitor module. Once that problem is solved, then you may be able to determine if you have a ignitor or wiring harness problem. Ignore the following ..e four control knobs eelectric
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pull knobs and look at switches that slide over and sit on top of controls, unplug or cut wires to any that look different, if no clues start unplugging or cutting wires to the one in front and work to the back. Sometimes you can release wires from the switch by sliding a small sharp tool besides the wire and moving it around, a paper clip will work somtimes. If you can't unplug wires cut them so you can reattach them later, solder and use shrink tubing on them. |
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When I first read KMKirstein's post, I thought that he was having the same problem as the original post by cadetz00m, hence my suggestion to sequentially disconnect the switches positioned on the gas valves. "crazyman" further expanded on that suggestion. When reading the post again this morning, I suspect that KMKirstein's real interest is in whether or not I was able to figure out why the sparker module did not stop the sparking after flame ignition.
As indicated in my earlier post, several Amana cooktops have a flame sensing spark ignitors. If KMKirstein is asking about getting those devices to work reliably, the answer is NO. My Amana cooktop ignitor is very sensitive to the location of the burner cap plate, for example. If it is not precisely centered, the module will keep on sparking even though the flame is lit. Improving the grounding of the cooktop does not seem to help. I'm very tempted to try to find new switches to go over the gas valve shaft that will only send power to the ignitor when the value is turned all the way ON. The fact that I've been unable to find any currently available cooktops with the auto-flame sensing feature implies to me that the manufacturers found the approach unreliable, and they discontinued such models. |
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