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I just replaced the bake element on my maytag precision control 500 oven. Between the time that I removed the old element and put the new element in, one of the loose terminals touched the oven wall, sparking inside the oven. Now that new element is installed, the oven will not heat at all. The broiler will not heat either. The range and the electronics/clock seem to work okay, but the oven wont respond. Whats the problem?
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I hate to say it, but you blew the clock control board. It is about a 300 dollar board. Tom ApplianceEducator.com
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Here are your parts Replacement parts for MAYTAG MER5755QAW RANGE- S/C F/S ELE | AppliancePartsPros.comkayakcrzy is probably right that the control board is shot but I would check the hi-limit switch (Item 18 in Section 1) first. It should be 0 ohms. I probably do not have to tell you but unplug/remove power from the unit when doing this. Also unplug one side of the hi-limit, this ensures that you do not read an alternative/parallel circuit. On many units the elements still have 120 volts going to one side of the element even with the element turned off!!! |
THIS FORUM IS DEAD!!!!!!! |
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Thanks for the replies. I was thinking that the high-limit switch would be the ticket, but I've been looking for it as labeled in my wiring diagram, but it simply is not there. I've followed the wires on the back of the oven, and I can't find it. Even though it is labeled on the diagram, the model must have been manufactured without one. My next guess was to replace the control board, but I would like to be sure before I spend the big bucks to buy a replacement. Is there a way to confirm that the control board is indeed shot?
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Originally Posted by: cvelbar  Thanks for the replies. I was thinking that the high-limit switch would be the ticket, but I've been looking for it as labeled in my wiring diagram, but it simply is not there. I've followed the wires on the back of the oven, and I can't find it. Even though it is labeled on the diagram, the model must have been manufactured without one. My next guess was to replace the control board, but I would like to be sure before I spend the big bucks to buy a replacement. Is there a way to confirm that the control board is indeed shot? I am obligated to state, I have NO business relationship with CoreCentric. I was just excited to find a resource who could save me a couple hundred dollars vs a new board, and about $100 vs a refurb available from major appliance parts sellers. CoreCentric refurbishes control boards for many appliance manufacturers. Their web site lists the boards they can handle. 90% of the boards in ranges/ovens are the same functionality with just some slight changes in layout and moly connectors...kind of like the PC motherboard thing. They will bench test and tell you if it can be repaired or not so they can probably also tell you if it was good when it came in the door. I shipped my Maytage double oven controller and had it back in about a week door to door.
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I'm not saying it's not the board, but first of all, did you stop to turn the breaker all the way off and then back on again?? Just because it doesn't "Look Tripped" doesn't mean it isn't. Always start with that.
Check voltage at the terminal block on the oven. You should be able to read 240 volts between the red and black terminals. If you have the 240 Volts coming in, then start moving on the things like control boards and things.
I was called out on a very similar call. First thing I did was cycle the breaker and hey, it's working again.
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