[KevinVarnes]

I've got a Kenmore (made by Whirlpool) electric range. The large burner will turn on and warm up, but won't get hot (this burner also has the SureSimmer option on it). Apparently while my wife was cooking on it she noticed it wasn't getting hot and pushed the SureSimmer button to turn it off and noticed a spark behind the panel. I'm guessing either the infinite switch (P/N 3149400) and/or the SureSimmer push button switch (P/N unknown) are bad. Is there a good way to test the infinite switch to determine if it is good or not?

[Dan O.]

Is there a good way to test the infinite switch to determine if it is good or not?

There is no 'bench test' that will determine if it is operating properly or not. The only thing that could be done would be to test its output to see if maybe it was cycling too fast or too much, resulting reduced element heating.

LINK > How an electric range infinite heat switch works

Testing on a 'live' appliance can be very dangerous. If you are unfamiliar with proper test and safety procedures, it should be avoided.

SureSimmer push button switch (P/N unknown)

It is part # 8272820

JFYI

Dan O.
www.Appliance411.com
The Appliance Information Site
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[KevinVarnes]

Thanks for the P/N on the push button switch. I saw that on the plastic shroud of the switch, but I couldn't find it listed anywhere under that number.

I found this website that had a rundown of a bench test for an infinite switch. Mine passed these continuity checks just fine, but I'm not convinced now that the test is good. http://www.********************.com/...switch-testing

I just put everything back together and now I can't get any heat from the large burner. I think I recall seeing somewhere how to test the burner, but I can't find it now. Any tips on testing that?

FWIW I'm also getting an E0 F2 error code which I believe to be independent of the burner issue. Research tells me that this is a membrane switch issue. I cleaned the contacts on the ribbon connector and it hasn't given the error yet, but I've found the error message to be somewhat sporadic in when it triggers.

Thanks for any and all help.

[Dan O.]

I found this website that had a rundown of a bench test for an infinite switch.

That would only determine if the switch was responsible for an element not working at all. As I stated, there is no bench test that will determine if it is operating (ie. functioning) properly or not. Its operation can only be observed while connected to an element and powered.

I think I recall seeing somewhere how to test the burner. Any tips on testing that?

The elements can be tested for continuity as can the element limiters (using the wiring diagram as a guide to which contacts to test between).

LINK > How do I test for continuity?

JFYI

Dan O.
www.Appliance411.com
The Appliance Information Site
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[KevinVarnes]

That would only determine if the switch was responsible for an element not working at all.

Right. That's why I said I wasn't convinced the continuity test was what I needed.

I'll crack it open again tonight and see if I can test the heating element and to see if I am getting power to the element.

Thanks for the links and for your help.

[KevinVarnes]

Success! I checked the wiring to the burner from the infinite switch and from the SureSimmer switch and everything appeared to be okay. I tested the heating element itself for continuity and got about 22 ohms of resistance which looked about right.

So I ruled out the heating element which left the infinite switch and the SureSimmer push button switch. Since I had seen a spark behind the SureSimmer switch once, I decided I would test that first. I could not get any continuity between the terminal from the H1 connector on the infinite switch and the terminal with the wire that went to the burner from the SureSimmer switch in the on or off position which seemed odd. I decided to bypass the SureSimmer switch altogether and see what happened. Wouldn't you know it the burner came on and worked just fine. Looks like I need to order one of those push button switches. Unfortunately I'm not getting off that cheap since I still need the touch pad for the other error code, but it's better than a heating element and/or the infinite switch.

Thanks Dan for your replies and links posted, they were of great help to me.

[Dan O.]

Looks like I need to order one of those push button SureSimmer switches.

Glad to hear you found the problem.

LINK > 8272820 SureSimmer Switch (no picture)

I'm not getting off that cheap since I still need the touch pad for the other error code

Yes the keypad for your model is pretty expensive. It is almost the cost of some whole control panels which come with the keypad as well.

LINK > 665.95812000 Control Keypad, White (no picture)


Let us know how you eventually make out.

Dan O.
www.Appliance411.com
The Appliance Information Site
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