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-   -   AP4091983 (73001049) Valve, dual thermal gas (http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/37009-ap4091983-73001049-valve-dual-thermal-gas.html)

WNCopeland 06-15-2009 12:00 AM

AP4091983 (73001049) Valve, dual thermal gas
 
The oven burner was not putting out the BTU's needed so I just purchased and replaced the dual thermal valve. Before I ask for an exchange want to make sure the part is defective and need some more troubleshooting tips.
I have checked the voltages and am getting 120vac at the valve as the knob is moved from boiler to oven. The igniters light up at the right time. The thermostat seems to kick in OK.

The broiler works just fine.
The flow for the oven barely lights the tube

Finally I removed all the gas outlet connections to see how good the gas flow would be if there were no restrictions. (yeah I know)... As expected the boiler gas flow is steady and seems to have a good volume. When hooked up the broiler functions just as it did when new.
When the oven circuit is energized the flow (from the other side of the valve) is much less than that of the broiler. If I throttle the outlet with my finger there is some flow, but when there is no restrictions the flow stops completely. This does not happen on the broiler. Could there be a grounding issue?

It is hard to believe that new part is faulty and am looking for a simple way to bench test or oven test this part. Is there a better wiring diagram that what came with the unit. I

Need a little help.
Aloha

Gene 06-15-2009 02:08 AM

Sounds like the problem is a weak Bake igniter. Check the current drawn by the igniter while it's on. If it's 3.2 amps or less then the igniter is the culprit.

- The part number for the Bake igniter is AP4091207

Here are the breakdown diagrams and Replacement parts for JENN-AIR PRG3601P | AppliancePartsPros.com

Gene.

WNCopeland 06-16-2009 09:53 AM

Thanks:

I have a Fluke 21 and connected one leg of the igniter circuit to ground and got a reading of .89. If this the correct way to measure the amp draw on the circuit? Is so can I wire the upper igniter in the lower circuit to test it or is that just not necessary.

Aloha
Neil

Gene 06-16-2009 12:49 PM

You have to wire the meter in series with the igniter to measure the current in the igniter circuit. The Broil and the Bake igniters in this oven are not interchangeable.

Gene.

WNCopeland 06-17-2009 11:39 PM

Guess I was lucky with the meter and did not have it on the circuit properly. Put it in series and the amperage reading for the lower igniter was 2.54 so will order/replace and advise.

WNCopeland 07-05-2009 11:55 AM

Igniter was it
 
Thanks Gene: Slowly dying igniter was the problem.

Gene 07-05-2009 10:02 PM

You are welcome. I'm glad you were able to fix it. Thank you for the feed back.

Gene.

platitude 12-11-2011 01:21 PM

Jennair PRG3000P similar Issue
 
Thanks for the info here, it's served as a good starting point.

I have the Jennair PRG3000P- which is just the smaller model- it seems the part numbers are close or identical for purposes of this discussion.

I'm having the following related issues and would appreciate some help troubleshooting if you are able to provide:

1- The Oven flame will start pulsating randomly- during the heating cycle. I can hear a difference in the pressure of the gas exiting the orifice when this happens and can watch the flame pulsate.

2- Sometimes, when the thermostat senses the oven reaching the requested temp, during the attempt to shut off the flow of gas there will be several cycles where the gas flame extinguishes, re-ignites, then extinguishes. The Thermostat is not, however turning on and of- it is remaining off. It's as if the gas valve is not shutting off completely.

Bake Igniter- I checked the igniter and it glows White-Hot on about 1/2 of it, the rest of it is a varying color.

Could it just be the igniter causing all these problems or do I have an issue with the Dual Gas Valve as well?

I have a video of the issue I've captured on my phone if there is a way to upload it. I could also post it to MyYouTube account if necessary- let me know.

Thanks for any help you can provide-

Mike

Gene 12-12-2011 05:00 PM

Hi Mike,

The problem can be a bad igniter as well as a bad gas valve. The best thing to do is to check the current drawn by the igniter during the normal flame and while the flame is pulsating.

Gene.

platitude 12-12-2011 05:09 PM

Thanks Gene-
Having a problem duplicating the issue. But... the current upon initial lite-up is at most 3.1 amps, as the igniter cycles during the heat on/off cycles per the thermostat's setting, the igniter begins to draw less current- the lowest reading I got was 3 amps. I let it run about 30 minutes at 350 Deg. and gave up. I guess I'll replace the igniter and go from there. thanks for your reply.


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