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mschwier  
#1 Posted : Wednesday, November 16, 2011 4:06:58 PM(UTC)
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mschwier

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Joined: 10/9/2011(UTC)
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My two left burners (xlo/simmer) suddenly stopped working. I just replaced the POTS and simmer control with part 497235. My unit is a Thermado PRG304US. That has the burners working now. XLO is not quite right. I had to install the POTS at an angle to snap them onto the piece behind. Can you confirm that I have the right kit? More of a problem is that once I restored power, all 4 burners are sparking while burners are turned off. If I turn on the two left burners, the sparking stops. The red light stays on when sparking. Any ideas?

I cannot get one of the venture tubes out to check the spark module. So no testing of that has been done. I can see the ground next to the spark module with a mirror. It looks okay from what I can see. The harnesses for the POTS seem to be okay. At least the wires are not cracked. They seem to make a good connection with the new POTS. Any help would be appreciated. With Thanksgiving on the horizon I need to get this resolved or call a tech.

Tonight I put the old parts back on and I am back where I started. No sparking anymore and the two xlo burners are not functioning. Ideas?
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whalerpaul  
#2 Posted : Monday, December 5, 2011 1:59:11 AM(UTC)
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whalerpaul

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I have the same model and we should probably keep in touch until all or our problems are solved :)

I was troubleshooting a problem with mine sparking all the time and I found out it was due to the standard (non XLO) right hand burner valve shaft not returning all the way out when turned off. This caused the microswitch to be activated, and with the gas turned off, it just kept clicking. Some WD40 on the shaft loosened things up and the knob now springs back. The microswitch is activated by a 'step' in the shaft and is only deactivated when it is completely off that step (fully retracted).
FOr the left hand XLO burners , there is no microswitch , but the potentiometer has 4 sets of contacts inside that provide the sensing of when you have turned on the gas. THe potentiometer itself can drag on the shaft keeping it from coming back out, and with you mentioning that you had to install the Potentiometer on a 'slant' might indicate that you are binding on the shaft with the potentiometer board. Check that by pulling out on the knob, or removing the knob and pull on the shaft directly to see if it is coming out fully. I dont recall, but it might be the case that you have to turn the left knobs somewhat to get the sparking started (after depressing the knob of course).
Im concerned that your replacement Potentiometers are not the same form factor. I recall seeing in one parts list that the original potentiometers are not available and you have to purchase a kit consisting of a pair of differnt potentiometers *and* a new simmer or spark unit and replace all 3... is that what you did? in your notes, you indicate you have not replaced the matching spark unit... that may be a problem for you until that gets done.

The following link has some useful info for you if you need to get the venturi's out to get access to the simmer controller:

http://forum.appliancepartspros...p-removal-questions.html

!!!WATCH OUT !!! for potential damage on the gas tubes and orifice holder when attempting to turn the venturi nut on top. I would try holding the orifice holder or nut underneath to keep it from turning when trying to turn the venturi nut. A vice grip might just work. The alternative is to cut the hexagonal top off the venturi I guess and then work on getting the remainder out of the orifice holder when the pan is out of the way.
I have to do all of the above because I need to get access to the gas regulator; you might get away with just removing the two screws on the cover for the simmer control from the opening between the burners ( without removing the drip pans). Then lift up the metal cover for the old simmer control (XLO controller) and unplug the wires on it. Im guessing you could install the new controller in a more accessible spot within reach of all the wires, including the ground wire. Maybe Gene could comment on whether you can safely do all that without removing the drip pans.

good luck and please share what happens

When the dust settles, if you have no use for the old potentiometers and/or spark unit, I'd like to get them and do some further analysis.


paul
whalerpaul  
#3 Posted : Monday, December 5, 2011 2:32:05 AM(UTC)
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whalerpaul

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On closer reading of your posting I think I know what you meant by installing on a slant... the potentiometer *does* click into a plastic backing plate that snaps into the metal gas valve. To get the potentiometers to be gripped by the backing plate tabs, you do sort of have to start it in at an angle. So, you may not have a mechanical problem there. That leaves the smoking gun of the simmer control unit that matches those two new potentiometers.

I am attempting a different approach on getting the drip pan out... see my other post (for model prg304us )
mschwier  
#4 Posted : Monday, December 5, 2011 4:59:14 AM(UTC)
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mschwier

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Turns out I had the wrong POTs (part of the simmer control kit). I got the original part number from another web site. Appliancepartspros.com says to call. When I called the sales lady was not much help. I only had the sparking issue when I installed the new parts. I figured it had to be associated with the new parts. So I reinstalled the old parts and everything was back to the original issue.

I went back and re-read the service bulletin that came with the parts. And sure enough I had the wrong POTs. Once I installed the correct POTs everything was working.
whalerpaul  
#5 Posted : Monday, December 5, 2011 1:06:30 PM(UTC)
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whalerpaul

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thats good news. Did you ever install the control unit for the simmer control?
Did your kit consist of: 2 potentiometers and one control unit?

Now that i have my drip pan out, I can see that it is necessary to remove it to replace the simmer control... there are many wires coming in both sides of the contol.

If you still have the old potentiometers I'd like to get them.
mschwier  
#6 Posted : Monday, December 5, 2011 1:14:13 PM(UTC)
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mschwier

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Originally Posted by: whalerpaul Go to Quoted Post
thats good news. Did you ever install the control unit for the simmer control?
Did your kit consist of: 2 potentiometers and one control unit?

Now that i have my drip pan out, I can see that it is necessary to remove it to replace the simmer control... there are many wires coming in both sides of the contol.

If you still have the old potentiometers I'd like to get them.


I installed the two POTS and the simmer controler. The simmer controler is behind the kickplate under the oven on my unit. The spark module is under the drip pan. I did not remove the drip pan or remove the spark module. I would need to see if I still have the old POTS.
whalerpaul  
#7 Posted : Monday, December 5, 2011 2:07:49 PM(UTC)
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whalerpaul

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Thanks! ... looks like I confused the two control units on my stove... I too have the one under the kick plate...I just assumed that the one under the drip plate was the simmer one.

I recall reading of a voltage meter based test of the control unit voltages but cant find that now... still looking.

Im now launching into trying to separate the venturi from the orifice holder... very carefully.
whalerpaul  
#8 Posted : Wednesday, December 7, 2011 12:02:44 PM(UTC)
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whalerpaul

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Joined: 12/4/2011(UTC)
Posts: 13

Originally Posted by: whalerpaul Go to Quoted Post
thats good news. Did you ever install the control unit for the simmer control?
Did your kit consist of: 2 potentiometers and one control unit?

Now that i have my drip pan out, I can see that it is necessary to remove it to replace the simmer control... there are many wires coming in both sides of the contol.

If you still have the old potentiometers I'd like to get them.



Actually I would love to get the potentiometers and the old control unit - I can do paypal or send a check.

I was able to get the left drip pan off my unit without disassembling the venturi's so I got access to the spark control unit and gas valve (that is leaking).
If you need my email address it is pws&uperkite@&gmail.c&om after removing the three '&'s

thanks,
paul
whalerpaul  
#9 Posted : Wednesday, December 7, 2011 12:50:23 PM(UTC)
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whalerpaul

Rank: Member

Groups: Registered
Joined: 12/4/2011(UTC)
Posts: 13

Originally Posted by: whalerpaul Go to Quoted Post
thats good news. Did you ever install the control unit for the simmer control?
Did your kit consist of: 2 potentiometers and one control unit?

Now that i have my drip pan out, I can see that it is necessary to remove it to replace the simmer control... there are many wires coming in both sides of the contol.

If you still have the old potentiometers I'd like to get them.



Actually I would love to get the potentiometers and the old control unit - I can do paypal or send a check.

I was able to get the left drip pan off my unit without disassembling the venturi's so I got access to the spark control unit and gas valve (that is leaking).
If you need my email address it is pws&uperkite@&gmail.c&om after removing the three '&'s

thanks,
paul
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