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tech_58  
#1 Posted : Friday, May 29, 2009 8:00:03 AM(UTC)
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tech_58

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Joined: 5/29/2009(UTC)
Posts: 5

Hi,

I have KitchenAid eletric Range with ceramic cooktop, model number is KERC600EWH2.

Two back burners work, but two front burner failed one after the other.
Once I saw spark when truning the knob on the right front burner, and the left front burner just quit working two months later (over work ? :) ).

So these two do not heat up after turning on the knob.

Q1: How can I diagnosis the problem and fix it ?
Q2: How can I remove the glass cooktop to access the burner?
Q3: How can I access the control if it need to connect blown wire (broken by spark)?

Thanks.
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Gene  
#2 Posted : Friday, May 29, 2009 2:43:35 PM(UTC)
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Gene

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You have to check for continuity the heating elements and the switches for the burners in question. You can find the instructions in the Service manual.

Here are the breakdown diagrams and Replacement parts for WHIRLPOOL KERC600EWH2 | AppliancePartsPros.com

Gene.
tech_58  
#3 Posted : Saturday, May 30, 2009 8:23:28 AM(UTC)
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tech_58

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Hi Gene,

Thank you.

The "R.F." heat-element ix fixed. (The problem was the blown plug-connector(s) connected to the dial-switch.)

I found a crack in the "L.F. heating element" and it breaks the continuity, so I need to replace it. The element is in location "11" of the "cooktop" diagram.

The L.F. is the largest (about 10 inches) out of the 4 heating surface.
Which one should I order?

Thank again.
tech_58  
#4 Posted : Saturday, May 30, 2009 12:27:20 PM(UTC)
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tech_58

Rank: Member

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Joined: 5/29/2009(UTC)
Posts: 5

Hi Gene,
Thank you for your PDF document.

I took the oven apart and measure the size.
Q4: Should I get AP3672859? Is that right?
A4: The measure is 10", and the size of AP3672859 shows 10 grid-size.

Q5: What would cause oven to fail?
The oven was working but "FAIL" after fixing R.F. burner. I heard clicking sound after pressing "BAKE then START", but NO heat after 30 sec.

Note: TOD was working and it is "close-circuit". In addition, I tried to tied those two plug connectors and test the oven. It still doesn't work.

A5: This is cause by the loose wire(s) in the DLB relay caused by lifting the Cooktop !
Rec-connecting fixed the problem. :-)
Gene  
#5 Posted : Monday, June 1, 2009 10:11:27 PM(UTC)
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Gene

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The part number for the LF surface element you posted is correct. I'm glad you were able to diagnose and fix the oven. Good job!

Gene.
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