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I think it's the control panel, but how can I be sure?? The knob for the oven turns with no

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  #1 (permalink)  
Old 05-18-2009, 05:40 AM
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Question ge oven and clock not working
Model Number: JBP21BY2WH   Brand: GE   Age: 1 - 5 years   

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I think it's the control panel, but how can I be sure?? The knob for the oven turns with no resistance, all of the burners work fine. If it is the control panel is it difficult to insatll a new one?

Thanks.


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  #2 (permalink)  
Old 05-18-2009, 01:10 PM
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Sounds like the control board has to be replaced. You have to replace the faceplate as well because it's glued to the control board. These parts is not too difficult to replace yourself. Remove the knob and the rear control panel cover.

- The part number for the control board is AP2026125

- The part number for the faceplate is AP2025965

Here are the breakdown diagrams and Replacement parts for GE JBP21BY2 | AppliancePartsPros.com

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Old 05-22-2009, 04:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gene View Post
Sounds like the control board has to be replaced. You have to replace the faceplate as well because it's glued to the control board. These parts is not too difficult to replace yourself. Remove the knob and the rear control panel cover.

- The part number for the control board is AP2026125

- The part number for the faceplate is AP2025965

Here are the breakdown diagrams and Replacement parts for GE JBP21BY2 | AppliancePartsPros.com

Gene.
I ordered the parts and installed the parts, and I still can't get the oven or the clock to work..Any other suggestions woud be appreciated. Thanks.
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Old 05-23-2009, 09:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by trader View Post
...I still can't get the oven or the clock to work...
Can you be more descriptive on this?

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Old 05-24-2009, 03:40 AM
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Default oven & clock still do not work.

I ordered new parts an installed The parts, the control panel and face for the clock. The burners work fine but the oven & clock still do not work. I don't know how much more decsriptive I can be than that. What part dont you undrestand??
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Old 05-24-2009, 01:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by trader View Post
...clock still do not work...
What the clock does and what does not when you tried to use it?

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Old 05-24-2009, 08:14 PM
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Default after buying & installing rec. parts still no oven or clock.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Gene View Post
What the clock does and what does not when you tried to use it?

Gene.
Gene, Do you even read my post before replying?? I bought the parts you suggested I put them in the stove, The OVEN AN CLOCK STILL DO NOT WORK!!!> These parts were supposed to be the solution ..

Do you imbide before you answer??
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Old 05-25-2009, 07:45 PM
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This is a pretty simple range. It has no safety thermostat. The oven is heated with bake and broil elements and is controlled by an electronic board (clock). In order to help you all we have to go by is the information provided by you:

"all of the burners work fine" - this tells us that the range gets power (electric elements need 220 volts to "work fine").

"The knob for the oven turns with no resistance" - this knob would usually have some sort of resistance. From GE: "In October of 1996 the Cam, Nut and Spring that gave the feel of a firm knob rotation was eliminated. The purpose was to help improve assembly techniques in the plant. The cam, nut and spring do not have any affect on the controls performance. Their only purpose was controlling how easily the knob would rotate. A slight detent is still present when knob is rotated to any mode of operation or OFF. Models effected include JBP21 - JBP78". So, when you said there was no resistance, it was a possible indication of a bad control board.

As I said earlier, this is a simple model. The clock gets power directly from the source, no safeties. If the clock is dead, there are only two options - no power to the clock or bad clock. Since you said the top elements were working fine, the assumption would be that the clock does get power (a broken or burnt wire is somewhat unlikely in this case unless maybe the self cleaning cycle was used just prior to the clock going dead). So, with the very limited information that was provided everything is pointing to the clock being bad. A tech in the field would have probably checked to make sure that the clock does get power using a voltmeter. However, expertise of the homeowners asking for help varies greatly and we do try to provide advice as accurately as we can given the circumstances.

The many thanks posted through out this forum speak volumes of our volunteer experts' knowledge, dedication as well as patience.

This forum is a free service that most parts companies either do no provide or do a fairly lousy job at. Now our forum is not perfect by any means, but considering the alternatives and great feedback we get from our users, this is arguably the best place to get advice on appliance repair. And it's free.

This brings me to the derogatory comments you've made in your previous posts. Your insults do not make any common sense. You are here asking for help, are you not? What brought on this kind of language? Was it Gene asking you to provide more info, to be more descriptive? To maybe let us know for example whether the clock, both old and new, was showing any signs of life or that whether or not self cleaning was used just before the oven had passed away? This oven, by the way, would not function unless the time is set on the clock.

Now, so that you don't feel like Gene was trying to "sell" you a new clock, I will make an exception and accept this installed board back should you decide to return it. Your order has so been noted.

If you want our help, do the right thing and maybe Gene or another expert will help. Otherwise, ta-ta...
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Old 05-25-2009, 08:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Admin / APP Team View Post
This is a pretty simple range. It has no safety thermostat. The oven is heated with bake and broil elements and is controlled by an electronic board (clock). In order to help you all we have to go by is the information provided by you:

"all of the burners work fine" - this tells us that the range gets power (electric elements need 220 volts to "work fine").

"The knob for the oven turns with no resistance" - this knob would usually have some sort of resistance. From GE: "In October of 1996 the Cam, Nut and Spring that gave the feel of a firm knob rotation was eliminated. The purpose was to help improve assembly techniques in the plant. The cam, nut and spring do not have any affect on the controls performance. Their only purpose was controlling how easily the knob would rotate. A slight detent is still present when knob is rotated to any mode of operation or OFF. Models effected include JBP21 - JBP78". So, when you said there was no resistance, it was a possible indication of a bad control board.

As I said earlier, this is a simple model. The clock gets power directly from the source, no safeties. If the clock is dead, there are only two options - no power to the clock or bad clock. Since you said the top elements were working fine, the assumption would be that the clock does get power (a broken or burnt wire is somewhat unlikely in this case unless maybe the self cleaning cycle was used just prior to the clock going dead). So, with the very limited information that was provided everything is pointing to the clock being bad. A tech in the field would have probably checked to make sure that the clock does get power using a voltmeter. However, expertise of the homeowners asking for help varies greatly and we do try to provide advice as accurately as we can given the circumstances.

The many thanks posted through out this forum speak volumes of our volunteer experts' knowledge, dedication as well as patience.

This forum is a free service that most parts companies either do no provide or do a fairly lousy job at. Now our forum is not perfect by any means, but considering the alternatives and great feedback we get from our users, this is arguably the best place to get advice on appliance repair. And it's free.

This brings me to the derogatory comments you've made in your previous posts. Your insults do not make any common sense. You are here asking for help, are you not? What brought on this kind of language? Was it Gene asking you to provide more info, to be more descriptive? To maybe let us know for example whether the clock, both old and new, was showing any signs of life or that whether or not self cleaning was used just before the oven had passed away? This oven, by the way, would not function unless the time is set on the clock.

Now, so that you don't feel like Gene was trying to "sell" you a new clock, I will make an exception and accept this installed board back should you decide to return it. Your order has so been noted.

If you want our help, do the right thing and maybe Gene or another expert will help. Otherwise, ta-ta...
You and your staff are the supposed experts, when I tell your people that the oven and the clock do not work and you sell me a control board that runs both of these functions and after installing these parts it still does not work I am asking for a solution to said problem not mubo jumbo. Like your pros said this is not a complicated stove. So whats your problem?? Can't you figure it out?? If you don"t have a solution don"t berate the client!! TA TA !!
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Old 05-25-2009, 09:54 PM
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I'm sure if I was there, I'd have the thing fixed in no time. However, we are NOT there and have to rely on the information provided by you, which in this case is not much. Doesn't sound like you read my post carefully. There is no magic. You give us the details and we try our best to pin point the source of the problem. If ALL you're telling us is that your oven clock doesn't work, what do you expect in return? And to make things worse, when we do ask you for more info, you come back with insults??? Just return the parts back, we'll give you full refund. I'd rather help someone who wants it.
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