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enottleson  
#1 Posted : Monday, October 24, 2011 11:17:51 AM(UTC)
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enottleson

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I just installed a new igniter / spark module, model AP2023163 (WB20X107). Several forums confirmed this to be THE 4-wire igniter for GE stoves. It looks exactly like the one I removed.

Problem: it clicks every 20-30 seconds when the stove is off. I tied off the wires when I removed the old one, so that I reconnected the new igniter correctly. As a test, I swapped the 2 output leads - no change. I also swapped the 120v input leads (L & N) - no change. All 4 gas knobs are fully off - they need to be turned all the way ON before the rapid clicking occurs for normal ignition.

So technically, it works - we can cook again without using a BBQ lighter. But the clicking is slow torture.

Is it defective? Is there an installation trick to ground out any stored charge? Are there several close-but-not-quite ignitor modules?
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Gene  
#2 Posted : Monday, October 24, 2011 1:45:25 PM(UTC)
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Gene

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What is the complete model number of the stove?

Make sure the stove is properly grounded in accordance with the installation instructions and there are no reversed polarity in the power source.

Gene.
enottleson  
#3 Posted : Tuesday, October 25, 2011 3:17:15 AM(UTC)
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enottleson

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Originally Posted by: Gene Go to Quoted Post
What is the complete model number of the stove?

Make sure the stove is properly grounded in accordance with the installation instructions and there are no reversed polarity in the power source.

Gene.


Gene, it's an older cooktop model; the paper has been obscured/degraded by grease & time.
The old clicker is a Harper-Wyman KOOL LITE model 6520, with a 4 mA coil. Through several Internet searches, I cross-referenced it to the GE sparker. The body style is identical.

Regarding polarity: the polarity at the 120v outlet is OK. Inside the stove, I initially wired the L & N terminals on the sparker the same as they were when I removed the old unit. After installation, and discovering the regular clicking (20-30 seconds apart), I switched the power leads (since it's 120v, I wasn't worried about damage). I was thinking that the Line-side could be continuously energizing the coil if the wiring had been reversed somewhere. But the clicking continues, whichever way I connect the 120v wires.

Ditto on the 2 output wires at the other end of the coil: connected them as per original - regular clicking. Switched them - still regular clicking.

Regarding grounding, the outlet is properly grounded back to the breaker panel, and the cord from the stove is the original 3-wire grounded cord. I have not checked the ground connection IN the stove, but will look at this if you believe it's a concern. The old sparker worked fine / normally up until it's demise a few months ago, so I had not considered that something would be wrong with the stove itself (such as a missing or loose ground connection).

Any other thoughts?

PS: sorry about the confusing html/font/punctuation crap in the first post - I do not know how that was added. I'm new to this, and I'm simply typing in the Post box.
Gene  
#4 Posted : Wednesday, October 26, 2011 10:55:28 AM(UTC)
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Gene

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Using an appropriate wire, connect the cooktop body to a house water pipe. Post the results.

Gene.
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