Customer Support 7 days a week

Welcome Guest! To enable all features please Login or Register.

Notification

Icon
Error

New Topic Post Reply
Options
Go to last post Go to first unread
Sean94526  
#1 Posted : Thursday, October 20, 2011 3:02:57 PM(UTC)
Quote
Sean94526

Rank: Member

Groups: Registered
Joined: 10/20/2011(UTC)
Posts: 2

My lower bake element was not working. I took it out and it tested at 25 ohms, so I assume it works. When I tested the lead ends that connect to the bake element, one read 120 volts and the other zero. I'm not sure what the next step would be. The inop lead does not have any visible issues but I have not yet attempted to take the whole oven apart to view upstream. Does anyone have any easy checks I can do before I call the repair person? Thanks for any help!
Sean
Sponsor
See inside of your appliance - diagrams and part photos for virtually every model.

powered by AppliancePartsPros.com
 
denman  
#2 Posted : Friday, October 21, 2011 3:31:16 AM(UTC)
Quote
denman

Rank: Advanced Member

Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 2/29/2008(UTC)
Posts: 19,638

Thanks: 1 times
Was thanked: 11 time(s) in 11 post(s)
I could not find any tech info on this unit.

[COLOR="DarkRed"]My lower bake element was not working. I took it out and it tested at 25 ohms, so I assume it works. When I tested the lead ends that connect to the bake element, one read 120 volts and the other zero.[/COLOR]
Not sure how you were measuring the above so do not understand it.
The element resistance looks OK.
But if you were using Neutral as the reference then you should see the 120 volts on both sides of the element since the element will conduct the voltage to the far side also.
So I cannot draw any conclusions for the above.

I can give some general info.
Many units have one side of the element always connected to one side of the line. That is why you see the 120 volts there when one meter lead is on the Neutral or ground/frame. They then switch in the other side of the line (120 volts but 180 degrees out of phase) to provide 240 volts across the element.
Note: The element does not use Neutral as part of it's circuit.
This is why it is very important to shut power off to the unit when replacing an element as it is always live.

The switched side is usually controlled by the control board re: one of the large black relays on the board.
Some units also have another relay (DRM) often to ensure both elements do not come on at the same time.

Also some unit have a thermal overload (thermostat) that opens if an over temperature error occurs. It is often mounted to the back or top of the oven. On some units it kills power to both elements, on others just to one element.

Trace the wires to the element and if one of them goes through a thermostat check the thermostat. It should be 0 ohms.

Try flipping the breaker off/on slowly a couple times.
Sometimes you can loose half the line without actually tripping the breaker and the element requires the full 240volts.
If this does nothing, check the voltage at the plug.
L1 to L2 should be 240 volts
L1 to Neutral and L2 to Neutral, both should be 120 volts.
If OK
Unplug the unit and check the wires at the terminal strip in the machine to make sure none are loose or burned out
If OK
Check the power at the terminal strip.
Do this with the heater off and on.
[COLOR="Red"]Be careful as 240 volts is lethal !!![/COLOR]
THIS FORUM IS DEAD!!!!!!!
Sean94526  
#3 Posted : Saturday, October 22, 2011 6:02:01 PM(UTC)
Quote
Sean94526

Rank: Member

Groups: Registered
Joined: 10/20/2011(UTC)
Posts: 2

Thanks Denman for that info.
Quick Reply Show Quick Reply
Users browsing this topic
New Topic Post Reply
Forum Jump  
You can post new topics in this forum.
You can reply to topics in this forum.
You can delete your posts in this forum.
You can edit your posts in this forum.
You cannot create polls in this forum.
You can vote in polls in this forum.