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GE Profile Electric Cooktop/Range Losing Heat

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Has it reached the end of its life cycle? The surface elements now take forever to boil a pot of

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  #1 (permalink)  
Old 05-03-2009, 03:49 PM
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Default GE Profile Electric Cooktop/Range Losing Heat
Model Number: 191D1414   Brand: GE   Age: More than 10 years   

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Has it reached the end of its life cycle? The surface elements now take forever to boil a pot of water. All burners are similar. They seem to cycle off too often during the cooking process. Is there a chip or board or something that controls this? It did not behave this way in the past - only recently. Any suggestions appreciated. Thanks.


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  #2 (permalink)  
Old 05-03-2009, 04:10 PM
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They are all controlled by separate switches so it would be odd that all of them would do the same thing at the same time especially when most of the time if a switch is bad it will either cause the unit to heat too much or not at all. I am not saying the switches are not your problem in fact if it were just one I would say the switch is your most likely problem. But it sounds to me like a wiring problem. Cooktop Repair Guide
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Old 05-03-2009, 04:11 PM
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Recheck your model number a post it so I can help more.
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Old 05-03-2009, 04:34 PM
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There's a number under the left-most burner control knob. It reads 191D1414 over the shaft and G001 under it. Is this not the model #?
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Old 05-03-2009, 04:40 PM
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Just came up with the instruction manual. The manual covers models JP-38, JP-39 and JP-40.
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Old 05-03-2009, 04:45 PM
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Continuing to read through the manual. It mentions the existence of a "Temperature Limiter" that's supposed to protect the cooktopo from getting too hot. perhaps this is what's malfunctioning?
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Old 05-03-2009, 05:36 PM
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Still donít think that is the model number. Did the problem happen all at once?
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Old 05-03-2009, 05:40 PM
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Yes. The model number cannot be in question as I have the manuaql in front of me. It is called a Radiant Slide-In Range. oops! It's model #s JSP 38, 39, 40. I omitted the "S" in my previous post.
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Old 05-03-2009, 05:42 PM
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What about the constant cycling off of the burner during the cook process? Is there a way to be sure that the HI setting is reaching the proper temperature?
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Old 05-03-2009, 07:07 PM
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Ok it is a glass-top previously it though it had regular burners. But what I said in the first post about the switches is still true. Just to be clear you say you have the problem with all of the units? The each unit has its own limiter so same thing (unlikely all went bad at once). One question does the bake and broil work ok. If it were a wiring problem as I stated before the units probably wouldn’t get red. Could you tell me how approximately how long the top burners stay red (on high and med) before cycling off? Also measure some water and let me know how much and how long it takes to boil this amount. Again if you were talking about one unit I would say the switch but all at once is unlikely.
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