Your problem is not necessarily the keypad, it could be the control board.
You said you replaced the fuses so I am assuming that you replaced the power transformer fuse and the oven element's thermal fuse.

Did you check these with a meter before replacing to be sure they were blown?
I am also assuming that the control/timer did not light up and that is why you replaced transformer fuse.

The usual way to check these problems is to check the keypad switches with a meter and then if it checks out OK replace the control board. Still a bit of a crap shoot but your odds are better. The problem here is that they do not give a pin out listing for the keypad.
You would have to make a chart and then by trial and error figure out which two ribbon cable connections correspond to which key to see if all keys are OK. This is complicated by the fact that if the keypad has diodes on it so the meter polarity also is important.

I would check the ribbon cable wires/tracks for continuity. If you find an open one then this is repairable. The easiest way is to solder in a jumper wire.
You could also check the keys but that will be time consuming to say the least.

Now for the gamble.
If we assume that the control board is passive (does not have any integrated circuits/transistors on it) then the a voltage spike would be more likely to knock out the control board.
Here I am assuming that the ribbon cable measures OK.
Then odds are that the control board is shot but I cannot give you a percentage on this but it would be higher than 50%.

There are companies out there that repair control boards just Google "appliance timer repair".
Be sure to get a cost so you know how much the gamble will cost.
Also be sure to give them a description of the problem etc.

I would also remove the transformer and connect it to a line cord and check the voltages on the secondary to be sure it is OK. Some electrical experience is needed to do this.