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Whirlpool Flat Top Stove...few burners not heating

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I've actually had this problem for over a year. Now it's getting worse since another burner stopped working. I have

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Old 09-08-2011, 06:45 PM
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Default Whirlpool Flat Top Stove...few burners not heating
Brand: Whirlpool   Age: 5 - 10 years   

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I've actually had this problem for over a year. Now it's getting worse since another burner stopped working. I have a flat top stove and 2 of the burners stopped working. One of my other Big burners...only the outer ring seems to be lighting up.

Model #: rf378lxmb

Is there any way to fix this? What could be causing it? I'm hoping for a quick cheap fix or else I'll end up buying a cheap flat top stove in the <$300 range.

It's getting really difficult to cook now. Oven works fine. And 1 burner works perfectly. The right 2 burners don't work. The bottom left burner (a big burner) appears to only have the wider outer ring working...

Any help appreciated!


Last edited by blahblehblah : 09-09-2011 at 10:19 PM. Reason: added model number
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Old 09-09-2011, 06:49 AM
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A model number may help others help you.

You will have to open it up and take a look.
Could be some wires have burned off.
Could be the infinite switches are failing.

Be sure to remove power from the unit when working on it.
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Old 09-09-2011, 10:19 PM
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Oops, forgot the important part.

Model #: rf378lxmb

I don't know if it's worth it to just get a new range if I can find a good deal under $400. I took a quick look at some parts and it seems any replacement switch or burner will cost at least $50-100. Seeing how I have 3 that are malfunctioning... hmm.

Any suggestions for what could be the problem? Never opened a stove before...so I'd have to figure out how to do that and what I'm looking at as well. Could be fun

Thanks in advance!
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Old 09-10-2011, 04:19 AM
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If you decide to try fixing it the following should help.
De sure to unplug the unit when working on it.

The parts
Replacement parts for WHIRLPOOL RF378LXMB0 30" ELECTRIC CERAN FREESTANDING RANGE SELF CLEAN OVEN | AppliancePartsPros.com

See the attachment for the the tech sheet.

The service manual
http://appliancedigest.com/index.php...service-manual
You have to join the site to download the manual but it is free and this is a very good site for manuals and other info for the appliance repair DIYer.

A meter will let you check the elements to see if they are OK.
If the element and the wiring are OK then the infinite switch is the likely culprit.

If you do not own a meter, I would suggest you purchase a one. You can get a decent digital multimeter for under $20.00. You do not need fancy though it is nice if the leads are a couple feet long.
If it saves ordering one unnecessary part it has paid for itself and you end up owning a useful tool.
Most places will not let you return electrical parts so if you order it, you own it.
A couple things to watch when measuring ohms and continuity
1. Always remove power from the machine otherwise you could blow your meter.
2. Always disconnect at least one side of any device you are checking. This eliminates the possibility of measuring an alternate/parallel circuit path.
3. When checking for closed contacts and continuity use the lowest scale (Usually 200 ohms). Then try higher scales. This scale is 0 to 200 ohms so if the device you are measuring is 300 ohms this scale would show an open circuit which it is not, you are just measuring outside the scale's dynamic range.
4. When you start always short the meter leads together. This will tell you that the meter is working and if there is any 0 offset.

There is a good STICKY at the start of this forum about it's use.
Attached Images
File Type: pdf RF378.pdf (200.7 KB, 4 views)
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