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Whirlpool Gold Microwave/Oven Saga

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Would appreciate some expert help with our electric oven. We have had four different repairmen come out to fix this

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Old 07-26-2011, 11:59 AM
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Default Whirlpool Gold Microwave/Oven Saga
Model Number: GMC305PRS01   Brand: Whirlpool   Age: 1 - 5 years   

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Would appreciate some expert help with our electric oven.

We have had four different repairmen come out to fix this oven over the past four years for various reasons. Our most current issue is that it does not heat up at all. About a year ago the repairman said that it needed a new control panel, and he put one in. Currently the repairman is saying, "Control panel is bad, and you need a new panel". I'm thinking that something else is occurring since the control panel works in all other aspects (microwave is fine, timer works, clock works, etc.) What can we do for ourselves to see if we can solve this problem?


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  #2 (permalink)  
Old 07-26-2011, 01:11 PM
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Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by toc9231 View Post
Would appreciate some expert help with our electric oven.

We have had four different repairmen come out to fix this oven over the past four years for various reasons. Our most current issue is that it does not heat up at all. About a year ago the repairman said that it needed a new control panel, and he put one in. Currently the repairman is saying, "Control panel is bad, and you need a new panel". I'm thinking that something else is occurring since the control panel works in all other aspects (microwave is fine, timer works, clock works, etc.) What can we do for ourselves to see if we can solve this problem?
Toc,

First a couple of questions,

When the servicer replaces the part, is he replacing the control board

Part number: AP4909215

Part number: AP4909215


Or the keypad assembly

Part number: AP4365137

Part number: AP4365137


You most likely have a bad keypad assembly, based on your post information.

Is it possible that when cleaning the unit after cooking, etc. someone is cleaning the control panel with household chemical cleaners ? The chemicals can, and usually do, cause premature failure of the keypad buttons. You should use just a damp cloth to clean the control panel.

Thanks and Good Luck,
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Old 07-27-2011, 02:01 PM
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Hi Joe,

Thanks for your feedback. To answer your question he replaced the control board behind the keypad. If the keypad were faulty wouldn't everything stop working (i.e. the timer, the microwave controls and the oven)? Right now when I turn on the oven, by pressing "Bake" and then "Start", the oven makes all the noises it used to make while warming up (the clicking and popping sounds) and the pre-heat timer comes on as well. These noises tell me that the oven is at least trying to heat up.

What are the odds that the control board has gone bad after just a year and only a couple of uses? Would you still recommend replacing the keypad?

Thanks so much for any assistance!
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Old 07-27-2011, 03:46 PM
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Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by toc9231 View Post
Would appreciate some expert help with our electric oven.

We have had four different repairmen come out to fix this oven over the past four years for various reasons. Our most current issue is that it does not heat up at all. About a year ago the repairman said that it needed a new control panel, and he put one in. Currently the repairman is saying, "Control panel is bad, and you need a new panel". I'm thinking that something else is occurring since the control panel works in all other aspects (microwave is fine, timer works, clock works, etc.) What can we do for ourselves to see if we can solve this problem?
TOC,

You're going to need to get access to a multimeter,

Part number: AP3873826

Part number: AP3873826


we'll need to turn the power off and remove the elemnt so we can test for voltage at the element in a bake and broil mode, determine the voltage loss on L1 or L2 and trace the problem back to the source.

Sorry, I misunderstood the original issue, I would not expect a problem with a relatively new control board(but it is possible) I would also expect other issues (with the power supply) as well.

Once we have the elements out, and access to the wire terminals, we'll check across both wires for 240 VAC, Then each wire to chassis ground for 120 VAC so we can determine whick power leg has lost the 120 VAC.

Let us know when you're ready to test and we'll get a step by step test procedure posted to you.

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Old 08-08-2011, 10:25 AM
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Default No current

Okay, as requested, we checked the leads with a multimeter and found no current at all...but we are not experts, so if you wouldn't mind giving us the step-by-step procedures I would really appreciate it.

Thanks so much!

Last edited by toc9231 : 08-08-2011 at 10:29 AM.
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Old 08-08-2011, 01:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by toc9231 View Post
Okay, as requested, we checked the leads with a multimeter and found no current at all...but we are not experts, so if you wouldn't mind giving us the step-by-step procedures I would really appreciate it.

Thanks so much!
Toc,

These are live voltage tests, so be careful, don't hurt yourself,

Turn power off to the oven, at the breaker box.

Remove the oven door, and racks.(it's easier to work in the oven).

Remove the two(2) phillips head screws holding the element mounting bracket to the rear oven wall, and carefully slide the element out a couple of inches.
Disconnect the two(2) Red wires from the element terminals behind the mounting plate.
(make sure you don't allow the wires to fall back inside the cabinet wall).
you should have the element removed, racks out the oven and the door removed, and two(2) red wires and terminals poking out the back wall of the oven.

You're going to program a bake cycle and temperature just like you were going to bake something.

Now you're going to take the meter probes and place the metal tips on each of the metal terminals attached to the end of the wires, You should read 220 to 240 VAC. If all is OK.

You will then need to check for 120 VAC from each wire terminal to chassis ground ( the element mounting screw holes make a good ground connection). so the wire on the right to chassis ground should read 110 to 120 VAC. and the same on the left wire to chassis ground. Once we know which power leg is missing we can remove the control panel and check for power out to the element fom the control, or remove the oven from the wall and check for an open thermal fuse or loss of power to wall oven.

Good Luck
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Old 08-17-2011, 07:42 PM
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Default Final Result

Hi Joe,

After several trips out to the breaker box I noticed that the switch for the oven was loose (all of the other switches were tight and secure), and since we did not have any electricity flowing to the oven ~ discovered after following your directions, we decided to talk to an electrician friend of ours. He was willing to come out and check the main breaker switch. As it turns out, that switch was defective from the moment it was put in. After replacing the main breaker switch the oven works perfectly! My friend said that the bad switch could have been blowing the oven's control panel making it appear to be an oven issue. Fortunately, after replacing one control panel last year, the new control panel wasn't affected by the bad switch. All is well now!
Thanks for your wonderful advise
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Old 08-18-2011, 07:17 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by toc9231 View Post
Hi Joe,

After several trips out to the breaker box I noticed that the switch for the oven was loose (all of the other switches were tight and secure), and since we did not have any electricity flowing to the oven ~ discovered after following your directions, we decided to talk to an electrician friend of ours. He was willing to come out and check the main breaker switch. As it turns out, that switch was defective from the moment it was put in. After replacing the main breaker switch the oven works perfectly! My friend said that the bad switch could have been blowing the oven's control panel making it appear to be an oven issue. Fortunately, after replacing one control panel last year, the new control panel wasn't affected by the bad switch. All is well now!
Thanks for your wonderful advise

TOC,

GREAT !!!!

I'm glad we were able to assist you through this. Also thank your electrician, He probably put in a little time and effort to properly diagnose the problem, and explain it to you.

It was my pleasure to help, and I'm glad all went well.

Thanks Again,

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