[vrajkuma]

Model: 66515819990, Kenmore Ulta Wash

Hi,

My dishwasher suddenly refuses to turn ON. I do not see any lights in the panel. I checked the circuit breaker and it seems fine. I even switched it OFF/ON. I also notice about 1.5 inches depth of water in the base of the dishwasher.

1. Could this just be a drain clog problem or drain pump issue. I see the drain pipe from dishwasher connected to the garbage disposal higher than water level in dishwasher. So I assume the pump needs to work to pump out the water. How can I test if pump is fine or get it to drain.

2. Could this be a fuse issue. How can I test if dishwasher is getting electrical power. I don't see a power receptacle to test, so the power wiring is going directly into dishwasher I assume. I don't have a meter, but a simple electrical tester. Do I need a meter to debug this

thanks. any help/pointers appreciated.

[denman]

Here are your parts
Replacement parts for KENMORE 66515819990 | AppliancePartsPros.com

See the attachment for the tech sheet.

1. Could this just be a drain clog problem or drain pump issue. I see the drain pipe from dishwasher connected to the garbage disposal higher than water level in dishwasher. So I assume the pump needs to work to pump out the water. How can I test if pump is fine or get it to drain.
I doubt this is your problem as a drain pump will not kill power to the unit unless it has shorted out which is unlikely.

2. Could this be a fuse issue. How can I test if dishwasher is getting electrical power. I don't see a power receptacle to test, so the power wiring is going directly into dishwasher I assume.
The unit is probably hard wired to the house wiring with a couple wire nuts.
This will be behind the kick plate.
You will have to remove the wire nuts and check for power just be very careful that they do not short to each other or the machine frame.

A high probability is the thermal fuse which is on the control board in the door.
Part number: AP3115186

Often they just blow on their own. If it is blown be sure to use the new harness that comes with it. Sometimes another part will cause it to go but the only real way to tell is give it a try unless you have a clamp on ammeter.
Flip the breaker to the unit. Then open up the door, remove the fuse and check it with a meter, should be 0 ohms.

I don't have a meter, but a simple electrical tester. Do I need a meter to debug this
I would get a meter as you can measure resistance (ohms) which is a lot safer as the power is off. Also it gives more info than what you have.

You can get a decent digital multimeter for under $20.00. You do not need fancy though it is nice if the leads are a couple feet long.
If it saves ordering one unnecessary part it has paid for itself and you end up owning a useful tool.
Most places will not let you return electrical parts so if you order it, you own it.
A couple things to watch when measuring ohms and continuity
1. Always remove power from the machine otherwise you could blow your meter.
2. Always disconnect at least one side of any device you are checking. This eliminates the possibility of measuring an alternate/parallel circuit path.
3. When checking for closed contacts and continuity use the lowest scale (Usually 200 ohms). Then try higher scales. This scale is 0 to 200 ohms so if the device you are measuring is 300 ohms this scale would show an open circuit which it is not, you are just measuring outside the scale's dynamic range.
4. When you start always short the meter leads together. This will tell you that the meter is working and if there is any 0 offset.

There is a good STICKY at the start of this forum about it's use.

[vrajkuma]

Thank You. I will try out the fuse with multimeter and order part if broken.