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Burners no longer work

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Oven Repair (including Ranges and Cooktops)

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This morning all four burners on the cooktop stopped working. Both of the ovens seem to be working just fine.

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Old 07-20-2011, 07:18 AM
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Default Burners no longer work
Model Number: MER6772BAQ   Brand: Maytag   Age: More than 10 years   

Appliance Parts from AppliancePartPros.com


This morning all four burners on the cooktop stopped working. Both of the ovens seem to be working just fine. Just the burners.

I replaced the control panel in this unit a couple of years ago.

Is there a methodology I can use to diagnose what's going on with the burners? I'm not getting any codes like I did when the control panel was going out.

EDIT: I guess I had it wrong, spouse says nothing is working, but the clock. Could this be the control panel again?

EDIT2: A little more information, the control panel seems to work fine. You can set a temperature for the ovens, and you hear the clicks like it's setting things and whatnot. It's just the ovens and burners on the cooktop don't heat up.


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Last edited by beachrog : 07-22-2011 at 07:00 AM.
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  #2 (permalink)  
Old 07-22-2011, 07:01 AM
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Is there a fuse somewhere or something internally I could check?
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Old 07-22-2011, 07:35 AM
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Here are your parts
Replacement parts for MAYTAG MER6772BAQ FREESTANDING-DOUBLE OVEN-ELECTRIC | AppliancePartsPros.com

Here is a service manual
http://appliancedigest.com/index.php...service-manual
You have to join the site to download the manual but it is free and this is a very good site for manuals and other info for the appliance repair DIYer.

I do n ot know of a fuse/thermal cut-off that effects both the oven and the stove top elements so I would start by checking the power to the unit.
The control runs off of 120 volts but the elements require the full 240 volts.

Try flipping the breaker off/on slowly a couple times.
Sometimes you can loose half the line without actually tripping the breaker.
If this does nothing, check the voltage at the plug
L1 to L2 should be 240 volts
L1 to Neutral and L2 to Neutral, both should be 120 volts.
If OK
Unplug the unit and check the wires at the terminal strip in the machine to make sure none are loose or burned out
If OK
Check the power at the terminal strip.
Do this with the heater off and on.
Be careful as 240 volts is lethal !!!
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Old 08-11-2011, 10:22 AM
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Sorry forgot to update.

The connection of the cord to the term block were loose, it had gotten real hot and burnt through the red wire. Got a new cord and new term block and all is fine.

Thanks for your guidance.
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Old 08-12-2011, 12:27 PM
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Glad to hear that you have it fixed

And thanks for getting back to us. Now when others search for a similar problem they will see what actually worked instead of just suggestions about what could be the cause.
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