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RCA Oven not heating

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Our baking element suddenly stopped working. The Broiler element still seems to work - at least it gets very hot.

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Old 06-12-2011, 03:48 PM
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Default RCA Oven not heating
Model Number: LEB356GOT188   Brand: GE   Age: 5 - 10 years   

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Our baking element suddenly stopped working. The Broiler element still seems to work - at least it gets very hot. The clock also is working properly. Can I safely assume that the baking element simply needs to be replaced or could it be something else? I'd like to know before I order the part. Thank you for your help.


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Old 06-13-2011, 05:25 AM
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I could not find info on the given model number are you sure it is not LEB356GT1BB which follows
Replacement parts for General Electric LEB356GT1BB Electric range | AppliancePartsPros.com

Only way to tell if it is thee element is to remove it from the unit and check it with a meter, they are usually around 20 ohms.

Be sure to unplug the unit when doing this as even with the control at Off many units still have power going to one side of the element.
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Old 06-13-2011, 06:27 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by denman View Post
I could not find info on the given model number are you sure it is not LEB356GT1BB which follows
Replacement parts for General Electric LEB356GT1BB Electric range | AppliancePartsPros.com

Only way to tell if it is thee element is to remove it from the unit and check it with a meter, they are usually around 20 ohms.

Be sure to unplug the unit when doing this as even with the control at Off many units still have power going to one side of the element.
Thanks for your quick response - I think that may be it, although there is a O (letter/number?) between the G and T.

This may seem a silly question to you - where can I get a meter and are they expensive? What would the process be - simply to touch the wire coming out where the coil used to be? Yes - I will definately unplug the oven.

Again I appreciate the advice.
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Old 06-13-2011, 06:41 AM
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You can get a decent digital multimeter for under $20.00. You do not need fancy though it is nice if the leads are a couple feet long.
If it saves ordering one unnecessary part it has paid for itself and you end up owning a useful tool.
Most places will not let you return electrical parts so if you order it, you own it.
A couple things to watch when measuring ohms and continuity
1. Always remove power from the machine otherwise you could blow your meter.
2. Always disconnect at least one side of any device you are checking. This eliminates the possibility of measuring an alternate/parallel circuit path.
3. When checking for closed contacts and continuity use the lowest scale (Usually 200 ohms). Then try higher scales. This scale is 0 to 200 ohms so if the device you are measuring is 300 ohms this scale would show an open circuit which it is not, you are just measuring outside the scale's dynamic range.
4. When you start always short the meter leads together. This will tell you that the meter is working and if there is any 0 offset.

There is a good STICKY at the start of this forum about it's use.

Unplug the unit.
Undo the screw/s holding the element to tha back of the oven.
Gently pull the element into the oven.
Undo one of the wires going to the element.
They are usually push on connectors, do not pull on the wire as you may pull it out of the female connector.
Sometimes you have to push them off using a screwdriver.
Then measure across the element for continuity.

It is a good idea to clip something (clothespin etc.) to the wire so that it does not disappear into the back of the oven.
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Old 06-13-2011, 07:05 AM
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Thank you!

If it is either the clock or board, is there a way for me to check it or will I need to call in a pro?
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Old 06-13-2011, 12:49 PM
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You could read the voltage at the board but this is a live test and it is best to avoid messing with 240 volts as much as possible.

So if the lement is OK and the wires from the board to the element are OK then you can assume it is the board.

Note: Some units have a thermal cut-off in the element circuit but I could not find one in your unit's parts.
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Old 06-13-2011, 06:55 PM
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OK - I was able to disconnect the baking coil and compltetly remove it - that is what one website said to do, however, I just noticed above you said to disconnect only one wire. What I see is on the left side there are two orange wires connected to the female connector. On the Right side only one yellow wire. When I touched the meter probes to the ends of the wires, nothing happened - the needle stayed put. I reconnected the coil on the left side, touched one probe to the connector and the other to the yellow wire - again, nothing. Does this mean that the issue is deeper?? (BTW - the circut breaker is turned off).

Oh, and could you explain what you mean by measure across for continuity??
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Old 06-13-2011, 07:29 PM
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Not sure I understand what you are doing.

What you want to measure is across the element not the wires.

The only reason I said to disconnect one side of the element when you are measuring across it is that it prevents you from reading a parallel/alternate circuit path. Then you know for sure that it is only the element you are checking.
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Old 06-13-2011, 07:56 PM
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I figured it out - thank you. The element is burned out. Thank you for all your help. Wish me luck so I can make dinner tomorrow night!

Last edited by mcook2465 : 06-13-2011 at 08:26 PM.
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