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Frigidaire Professional Series Cooktop Needs Top Glass Replacement

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Hi, I have Frigidaire Professional Series Stove/Oven (model PLES389DCC) with glass cooktop. A corner of the glass cooktop recently broke

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Old 01-09-2009, 08:55 PM
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Exclamation Frigidaire Professional Series Cooktop Needs Top Glass Replacement
Model Number: PLES389DCC   Brand: Frigidaire   Age: 1 - 5 years   

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Hi, I have Frigidaire Professional Series Stove/Oven (model PLES389DCC) with glass cooktop. A corner of the glass cooktop recently broke off from a guest hitting it accidentally with a heavy object. I have found several placess where I can purchase a new glass cooktop and have it delivered for under $300. However, I have no idea how to remove old glass top and install the new one. Can anyone provide me with instructions on how to remove the old glass cooktop and install the new one or let me know where I can find instructions? Thanks, Alex56


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  #2 (permalink)  
Old 01-10-2009, 08:38 AM
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Default

If I am not mistaken, the cooktop actually has to be seperated from the oven to do it. You have to remove the oven from it's place, and take the screws out attaching the cook top to the oven cavity. The you have to take the control panel off, and unhook 3 plug in harness, and if I remember right a ground wire or 2. Also there is a screw on each side of the control panel on the inside, that has to be removed, and then pick up the whole top, and set it down on the ground, and flip it over, and take the screws off seperating the metal case from the top. Then you have to remove all the burners, and signal lights, and then the glass. This is not easy, but this should be the general gist of it. Tom
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  #3 (permalink)  
Old 01-31-2009, 01:26 PM
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Default Detailed Instructions from another posting

I just replaced this part on our slide in (PN PLES389ECG). I ended up taking more apart than need be, I think, so I wanted to post what's really necessary to make this repair.

UNPLUG THE RANGE!

1. Open the door, and remove the four screws from under the console assembly
2. Remove the knobs, and then the large black mounting nuts. These are all that holds the control panel assembly on.
3. Lift off the control panel assembly, and disconnect any cable assemblies that go from it into the range. There are three, I think. They all only plug in one way, and are "one of a kind", so can only be plugged into the right place when reassembling. Set the control panel assembly aside.
4. Remove the six screws holding the control mounting panel to the console assembly. These are around the perimeter, and not the screws between the control knobs. Lift the control mounting panel enough to expose the five screws securing the top of the console assembly
5. Remove the five screws securing the top of the console assembly. I just let this hang during the repair, but I am pretty sure a real repair person would not do this. Take care to note how the gasket between the control assembly and ceramic top was in there so you can put it back the right way later.
6. The "top" includes the ceramic top, burners, and the metal box the whole assembly is in. This assembly is held to the main chassis by one screw on each side, which you've exposed by getting the control assembly out of the way. Remove these two screws.

** Note**
This is where I think I did too much. I removed the upper side panels and the upper back panel from the range thinking that these held the top on. They don't appear to, but they do prevent you from removing the screws securing the ceramic top to the sides and back of the top's metal box. I think that once you've gotten this far, you could pivot the top assembly up from the back to remove all these screws, but then I didn't do it this way...

7. You should now be able to lift the edge of the entire top assembly from the main chassis. The wires connect in the front, so you may better luck lifting the back. Carefully remove the screws holding the ceramic top to the sides, back and front. You should now be able to lift the top and burners (attached to the top) from the box.
8. Carefully remove the burners. They are held in by retaining bars that press the burner in. The bars clip into the top on each end. Pressing one end in with a screwdriver should allow you to swing the retaining tab (connected to the ceramic top) away from the retaining bar. Lay the burners in the box. Squeeze the tabs on the heat indicator bodies to release them from the ceramic top, and take care to keep them organized.
9. The top is now free. Set it aside, and put the new top in place. Remove the protecting strips from each edge of the top, exposing the cushion. Bend the retaining tabs on the new top down. There are also smaller tabs that hang down at the edge of each burner circle. I think these are intended to be at the edge of the burner to keep it centered (and not pressed in under the burner).
10. One at a time, lift each burner in place, hook each bar into one clip on one side. The other side seems to go in easier if you bend the bar slightly by leaving your finger wedged between the bar and buriner. This lifts the end of the bar enough that you can swing the clip down over it, and yank your finger out.
11. Press the heat indicators back in.
12. When you set the cermic top back down, the metal edge of the top in front goes inside the metal box, and the other edges go outside the metal box.

From here on out, it's pretty much running the movie in reverse. It was not an easy fix, but if you are comfortable with moderately difficult repairs, this one is do-able, and you can save a house call ($$).

Regards,

Steve
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  #4 (permalink)  
Old 06-20-2009, 04:14 PM
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Default PLES389 control box removal

Thanks for the tip on removing the control panel. I figured out the 4 screws but still wasn't sure what else had to be removed.
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  #5 (permalink)  
Old 09-03-2011, 08:43 AM
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Default Help on step 2

I am stuck on step two. Where are the large black mounting nuts? I cannot get the control panel off. Thanks!

Quote:
Originally Posted by armstrongi View Post
I just replaced this part on our slide in (PN PLES389ECG). I ended up taking more apart than need be, I think, so I wanted to post what's really necessary to make this repair.

UNPLUG THE RANGE!

1. Open the door, and remove the four screws from under the console assembly
2. Remove the knobs, and then the large black mounting nuts. These are all that holds the control panel assembly on.
3. Lift off the control panel assembly, and disconnect any cable assemblies that go from it into the range. There are three, I think. They all only plug in one way, and are "one of a kind", so can only be plugged into the right place when reassembling. Set the control panel assembly aside.
4. Remove the six screws holding the control mounting panel to the console assembly. These are around the perimeter, and not the screws between the control knobs. Lift the control mounting panel enough to expose the five screws securing the top of the console assembly
5. Remove the five screws securing the top of the console assembly. I just let this hang during the repair, but I am pretty sure a real repair person would not do this. Take care to note how the gasket between the control assembly and ceramic top was in there so you can put it back the right way later.
6. The "top" includes the ceramic top, burners, and the metal box the whole assembly is in. This assembly is held to the main chassis by one screw on each side, which you've exposed by getting the control assembly out of the way. Remove these two screws.

** Note**
This is where I think I did too much. I removed the upper side panels and the upper back panel from the range thinking that these held the top on. They don't appear to, but they do prevent you from removing the screws securing the ceramic top to the sides and back of the top's metal box. I think that once you've gotten this far, you could pivot the top assembly up from the back to remove all these screws, but then I didn't do it this way...

7. You should now be able to lift the edge of the entire top assembly from the main chassis. The wires connect in the front, so you may better luck lifting the back. Carefully remove the screws holding the ceramic top to the sides, back and front. You should now be able to lift the top and burners (attached to the top) from the box.
8. Carefully remove the burners. They are held in by retaining bars that press the burner in. The bars clip into the top on each end. Pressing one end in with a screwdriver should allow you to swing the retaining tab (connected to the ceramic top) away from the retaining bar. Lay the burners in the box. Squeeze the tabs on the heat indicator bodies to release them from the ceramic top, and take care to keep them organized.
9. The top is now free. Set it aside, and put the new top in place. Remove the protecting strips from each edge of the top, exposing the cushion. Bend the retaining tabs on the new top down. There are also smaller tabs that hang down at the edge of each burner circle. I think these are intended to be at the edge of the burner to keep it centered (and not pressed in under the burner).
10. One at a time, lift each burner in place, hook each bar into one clip on one side. The other side seems to go in easier if you bend the bar slightly by leaving your finger wedged between the bar and buriner. This lifts the end of the bar enough that you can swing the clip down over it, and yank your finger out.
11. Press the heat indicators back in.
12. When you set the cermic top back down, the metal edge of the top in front goes inside the metal box, and the other edges go outside the metal box.

From here on out, it's pretty much running the movie in reverse. It was not an easy fix, but if you are comfortable with moderately difficult repairs, this one is do-able, and you can save a house call ($$).

Regards,

Steve
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  #6 (permalink)  
Old 01-01-2014, 02:59 PM
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Thumbs up Thank you!

It took me a fair amount of surfing to find your post, but it was easily the most concise and accurate information I found to assist in my stove repair project.
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